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Q10833 - INFO: Comparing Reef Aquarium Test Kits by Keith MacNeil, a Marine Depot Staff Member
I am going to start this article with a confession: I do not like testing the water parameters in my reef aquarium.

I tend to be one of those “lazy” reefers that doesn’t test his tank and just waits until he notices a problem. Then, when a problem does occur, all of a sudden I run every test I can to see what is causing the problem in my tank.

Are my Calcium and Alkalinity levels out of whack? Are my Magnesium or Strontium levels low? What about my Nitrate or Phosphate levels, have they risen and are they what are causing the issue in my tank? If only I had spent that 10-30 minutes each week running a few tests here and there, I probably would have avoided some of the problems I have experienced in the past. That is something I would like to change with my current tank project.

So when I was presented with the chance to write an article on testing water parameters in a reef tank, I thought this would be the perfect opportunity to try out a bunch of different test kits by different manufacturers, report back on them and hopefully find some test kits that I could start using on a weekly basis to keep problems at bay in my tank.

The goal of this article is not to bash or praise kit X over kit Y, but more so to compare the test results from different manufactures and let you, the reader, decide which kit is best for you. I am also going to include the approximate time it takes to run each test. Obviously this will vary from person to person, but I think it will give a good basis on how long—on average—a test will take.

While there are many different parameters that should be tested in your tank, I am going to focus on five in particular: Phosphate, Nitrate, Calcium, Alkalinity (KH) and Magnesium. But before we dive into my test results, let’s quickly go over what parameters should be tested in a reef tank along with acceptable levels and ways of testing those parameters:
  • Temperature: While there are different opinions on what is ideal for a reef tank, most people find running their tanks between 78-82 degrees Fahrenheit is best. There are numerous ways of testing your temperature, from thermometers (digital and liquid) to electronic controllers with temperature probes. I use a controller (Neptune Systems AquaController Jr.) to monitor and control my tank temperatures but I also have a Coralife digital thermometer as a back up.
  • Salinity/specific gravity: In layman’s terms, it is the measure of how much salt is in your water. Salinity is the measure of total salts in a given weight of seawater expressed in parts per thousand (ppt). Specific gravity is used by aquarists to measure the salt content of seawater and is a dimensionless valuei . For a reef aquarium, a specific gravity of 1.025-1.026 (salinity of 34-45 ppt) is generally recommended. Most people will use a hydrometer or refractometer to measure their salt levels, but electronic salinity monitors are also available.
  • pH: The measurement of free hydrogen ions in water measured on a scale from 1.0 (acidic) to 14.0 (alkaline). pH is a contraction that stands for pondus Hydrogenii (weight of hydrogen). For a saltwater tank, we want to have a higher pH, with a level between 8.2-8.4. There are a few different options hobbyists have for reading their pH levels. One of the more common options is a liquid test kit. Most test kits use a color chart to find out the value of the pH. The tester will put a known volume of tank water into a test vial, add a few drops of an indicator solution to the vial and compare the color the water turns to a color chart that will correspond to a pH value on a chart. While an easy test to perform, comparing the colors can be hard especially if you are color blind or in a dark room. I have gone to electronic monitors for reading the pH in my tanks. They use a probe to measure the pH of the aquarium and will give a digital read out of the levels. While they can be quite a bit more money to purchase, they will monitor your pH levels 24/7, are easier to read and the monitor itself should last for a long time (my first pH monitor is still going strong after 14 years). The probes should be changed about every 18 months though.
  • Ammonia/Nitrite: Both of these are toxic, especially in high levels, to the livestock in your tank and should be maintained at undetectable levels (i.e. 0). Nitrite is less toxic in a saltwater aquarium than a freshwater aquarium, but none the less, maintaining the levels at zero is still ideal. With established biological filtration in an aquarium neither should be an issue, but when a tank is first set up, these levels should be monitored weekly or even a few times per week. Once the tank has fully cycled, normally testing their levels sporadically is fine (once a month to every other month). Liquid or dry reagent test kits for ammonia and nitrite are the most affordable and practical way of testing for their levels in our home aquariums. Like the pH test kits, a color chart comparison will be used to find the level of ammonia or nitrite within the aquarium.
  • Nitrate: The final byproduct of the nitrogen cycle (ammonia is broken down by bacteria into nitrite and then into nitrate by a different bacteria). While it is generally not considered harmful to fish, moderate to high levels can cause significant problems with many invertebrates (including death and other health issues) and can also lead to problematic algae growths within a tank. Keeping nitrate levels low (ideally at or very close to zero within a reef tank) is very important to the overall health of the tank and therefore monitoring their levels is very important. While this article won’t go into ways of reducing nitrate levels, you can find more information about that here. The most popular way of monitoring the nitrate levels within a tank is by using a test kit, but there are also electronic monitors available for those who wish to view up-to-the-second nitrate levels within their aquarium.
  • Phosphate: Like nitrates, phosphates are another fuel for algae and can even inhibit the ability of corals to utilize Calcium from the water. Phosphates can be introduced into the aquarium numerous ways, but most commonly are introduced from the food fed to your fish, from tap water or from additives or supplements used. Again, we’re not going to go into ways to reduce phosphates, but I will suggest the use of phosphate removers as one of the best methods. Testing of phosphate levels is most commonly done with a standard test kit (liquid or dry tabs), but there are also Photometers that allow for a more precise and more accurate reading of phosphates even at low levels.
  • Calcium: Calcium is the building block of the calcareous organisms within our reef tank. Corals, clams, coralline algae (and other calcareous algae like halemida), feather dusters and many other organisms rely on Calcium to build their skeletons or skeletal structures. Maintaining a proper Calcium level is very important to all these animals. Calcium also has a strong relationship with Alkalinity levels within the aquarium. According to Mike Paletta in this article, “There is a strong relationship between Calcium levels and Alkalinity that should not be neglected. If the Calcium levels get high (over 500) there is a tendency for Alkalinity to drop. Conversely, if Alkalinity levels get too high, Calcium levels will tend to fall as Calcium precipitates out.” Calcium levels ideally should be kept around 350-450 parts per million (ppm) and there are numerous test kits available for testing the Calcium levels of your tanks water, most using a titration method to determine their levels.
  • Starting color for titration (Salifert kit) Ending color for titration (Salifert kit)
    Starting color for titration (Salifert kit) Ending color for titration (Salifert kit)
  • Alkalinity: It is the capacity of a system (the water) to resist a downward change in pH and is also known as carbonate hardness. It can be measured with two different readings, milliequivalents per liter (meq/L) or degrees of carbonate hardness (dKH). Some test kits will give readings in one, the other or both. A higher Alkalinity level within the tank can help avoid rapid changes in the pH of system and, as mentioned in the Calcium description, it can have a direct effect on the Calcium levels within the tank. Natural seawater has a value of around 7 dKH (slightly lower in some areas and slightly higher in others). Most people recommend keeping the Alkalinity levels between 8-12 dKH in our home aquariums. Like Calcium test kits, there are numerous test kits available for Alkalinity as well, many using a titration method or simple color change methods to determine the Alkalinity levels.
  • Magnesium: It is the third most abundant ion found in seawater and plays a direct role in helping to maintain Calcium and Alkalinity levels within the aquarium. When Magnesium levels fall too low within the tank it causes Calcium to precipitate out of the water as well as Alkalinity levels to drop. By maintaining Magnesium levels within the tank, it will help keep the Calcium and Alkalinity levels in balance as well. If you are having issues with your Calcium and Alkalinity levels and you haven’t checked you Magnesium, that would be a great starting point. Your Magnesium levels should be around 3 times what your Calcium levels are running at. In natural sea water, the levels are around 1285 ppm, but the levels will be less in areas where the specific gravity is lower. Testing of Magnesium levels are also done with a titration test kit.
  • Strontium: Strontium is similar to Calcium (chemically) and therefore is utilized by corals to help build their skeletons. According to Sprung/Delbeek in their book The Reef Aquarium Vol. 3, “Anecdotal reports by aquarists link Strontium supplementation with rapid coral growth.” In natural sea water the levels of Strontium are found to be around 8 ppm (meq/L). We should try to maintain those levels within our aquarium as well. Titration kits from Seachem and Salifert are available for testing Strontium levels.
  • Iodine: I am not going to get into trying to explain Iodine, Iodate, Iodide, etc. since this can be confusing for many people (including myself). For a good explanation of the various forms of Iodine, check out page 184-185 of The Reef Aquarium Vol. 3. Iodine is found in most soft corals, marine algae, gorgonians and anemones tissue and helps with the growth of these organisms. Many people also use Iodine as a dip for their newly acquired corals as a preventative. Iodine kills bacteria and can help any damaged corals by killing off bacteria that could lead to infections. Test kits are available for testing Iodine levels by manufacturers like Red Sea, Seachem and Salifert. If you are dosing Iodine supplements, it is a very good idea to test their levels to prevent over dosing the tank.
So, without any further ado, let’s take a look at some test results I gathered over approximately one month’s span with test kits from API, Seachem, Tunze, Elos, Salifert and Red Sea. All kits were brand new before starting this testing with the exception of a few Salifert test kits that I had purchased years ago. I wanted to throw in the results of the “old” Salifert kits to get a comparison to the new ones I received.

Phosphate Test Kits

 Phosphate Test Kits
Phosphate Expiration Date Time Results Date Time Results Date Time Results
Tunze 1/31/10 12/16/08 ~5:00 0-.25 12/28/08 ~4:00 0 1/13/09 ~3:30 0
Red Sea 10/2010 12/16/08 ~6:00 0 12/28/08 ~5:00 0 1/13/09 ~5:00 0-0.1
API not given 12/16/08 ~8:00 0 12/28/08 ~6:30 0 1/13/09 ~6:00 0
Salifert 07/2009 12/16/08 ~3:45 0 12/28/08 ~3:00 0 1/13/09 ~3:15 0
Old Salifert 11/2008 12/16/08 ~3:00 0 12/28/08 ~3:00 0 1/13/09 ~2:45 0
Elos 08/2010 12/16/08 ~6:00 0 12/28/08 ~4:30 0 1/13/09 ~6:00 0
Seachem not given 12/16/08 ~3:00 0 12/28/08 ~2:30 0 1/13/09 ~2:00 0

As the testing progressed and I became more familiar with the instructions, the time it took to run each test decreased. Unfortunately (or fortunately, depending on how you look at it) my tank had no detectable phosphates. So while I was able to verify with multiple test kits of these levels, I wasn’t able to compare how their readings were for higher levels of phosphates. Overall I found all the test kits were easy to use and there were no major issues with any of them.

Since I was getting all zero results from my tank (possibly too new of a set up for the build up of phosphates) I got a sample of water from a fellow hobbyist who had a more established tank. The results from his water were a zero reading for the Tunze and API test kits, 0.1 from the Red Sea test kit, .03-.1 from both the new and old Salifert test kit, less than 0.01 from the Elos and between 0 and 0.05 from the Seachem test kit.

Nitrate Test Kits

 Nitrate Test Kits
Nitrates Expiration Date Time Results Date Time Results Date Time Results
Red Sea 8/2010 12/17/08 ~10:00 0 12/28/08 ~8:30 0 1/14/09 ~9:00 0
API not given 12/17/08 ~10:00 0 12/28/08 ~9:30 0 1/14/09 ~8:30 0
Salifert 06/2010 12/17/08 ~6:00 0 12/28/08 ~5:30 0 1/14/09 ~5:30 0
Elos 10/2009 12/17/08 ~8:00 0 12/28/08 ~7:30 0 1/14/09 ~8:00 0
Seachem not given 12/17/08 ~9:00 0 12/28/08 ~8:30 0 1/14/09 ~8:00 0

Like phosphates, as I became more familiar with the testing procedures, the testing became quicker and easier. Also like phosphates, my tank had zero readings for nitrates. These test kits were all again fairly easy to use but did take a little longer than testing for phosphates.

I had a phosban reactor that I had taken off my tank about a month earlier (I had run carbon in it) that I had forgotten to clean out. I decided to test this water for nitrates since I figured it would have some levels due to the stagnant water within the reactor. I was correct. For the Red Sea and API test kits I got a level of around 5, with the Salifert test kit I got a reading of around 2.5, the Elos kit gave me a reading of right around 10 and the Seachem test kit gave me a reading between 3 and 5.

Calcium Test Kits

 Calcium Test Kits
Calcium Expiration Date Time Results Date Time Results Date Time Results Date Time Results
Tunze 05/2010 12/18/08 ~13:00 340 12/29/08 ~10:30 340 1/16/09 ~11:00 340 1/20/09 ~10:00 340
Red Sea Pro 02/2011 12/18/08 ~9:00 380 12/29/08 ~8:00 380 1/16/09 ~5:30 400 1/20/09 ~5:30 400
API not given 12/18/08 ~5:00 380 12/29/08 ~4:45 380 1/16/09 ~5:30 400 1/20/09 ~5:00 380
Salifert 12/2012 12/18/08 ~5:00 355 12/29/08 ~4:30 370 1/16/09 ~3:45 370 1/20/09 ~3:45 375
Old Salifert 09/2009 12/18/08 ~4:00 345 12/29/08 ~3:00 360 1/16/09 ~3:00 360 1/20/09 ~3:15 365
Elos 10/2010 12/18/08 ~10:00 350 12/29/08 ~9:30 370 1/16/09 ~9:30 360 1/20/09 ~9:00 360
Seachem not given 12/18/08 ~9:30 325 12/29/08 ~7:00 375 1/16/09 ~6:00 350 1/20/09 ~6:00 350

The Tunze test kit calls for diluting the tank water that is to be tested with RO water. Unfortunately I don’t use RO water (only DI water), so this may have thrown off their results slightly. Overall these test kits seem to be fairly close in range.

Alkalinity Test Kits

 Alkalinity Test Kits
Alkalinity Expiration Date Time Results Date Time Results Date Time Results
Tunze 08/2009 12/20/08 ~2:40 7dKH 1/8/09 ~2:30 9dKH 1/20/09 ~2:30 8dKH
Red Sea Pro 01/2011 12/20/08 --- --- 1/8/09 --- --- 1/20/09 --- ---
API not given 12/20/08 ~4:45 9dKH 1/8/09 ~4:00 11dKH 1/20/09 ~3:30 9dKH
Salifert 6/2013 12/20/08 ~3:30 9.6dKH 1/8/09 ~3:20 11.5dKH 1/20/09 ~3:30 10.6dKH
Old Salifert 6/2009 12/20/08 ~2:50 8.6dKH 1/8/09 ~2:45 9.9dKH 1/20/09 ~3:00 9.5dKH
Elos 11/2010 12/20/08 ~4:20 8.5dKH 1/8/09 ~3:45 9.5dKH 1/20/09 ~3:00 9.5dKH
Seachem not given 12/20/08 ~4:00 8.4dKH 1/8/09 ~4:00 11dKH 1/20/09 ~3:40 9.8dKH

All the kits were very easy to use and the results were all fairly close together. I did have problems with the Red Sea Pro test kit though. The ending color was suppose to be purple (color change was from blue to purple). Unfortunately I could never get purple to come up, it would go from Blue to light green to orange so I could not get a result from their kit.

Magnesium Test Kits

 Magnesium Test Kits
Magnesium Expiration Date Time Results Date Time Results Date Time Results
Red Sea 12/2010 12/23/08 ~9:00 1500 1/8/09 ~10:00 1600 1/20/09 ~6:45 1460
Old Salifert 3/2008 12/23/08 ~5:30 1200 1/8/09 ~5:30 1185 1/20/09 ~4:45 1200
Seachem not given 12/23/08 ~14:30 1250 1/8/09 ~12:15 1188 1/20/09 ~12:20 1240

The Salifert test kit and Seachem test kit both seemed to get very similar results and while the Seachem did take more time to run, it was a little more precise in its readings. I once again had problems with the Red Sea test kit in getting an accurate color change. It was suppose to change to blue, but I could only get a purple color to form. I went with the purple color.


Now that I have run a few tests and noted the time it takes to run a test along with results you can judge for yourself which test kit will be best suited for you and your aquarium. Don’t put off testing your water until you see a problem occur in the tank. Be proactive and keep on top of testing and your tank will be better off in the long run. The testing will not only alert you to possible problems, but also aid in the proper dosing of additives and supplements.

i The Reef Aquarium Science, Art, and Technology by Delbeek and Sprung.
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Approved Comments...
i recently acquired a salt water reef tank ,due to a break up,and although its been in my home for 3 years i never messed with it,cared for it,and showed no interest toward it really ,other than loving to sit in front of it and stair at it for hours.i was completely terrified of taking it on ,and all the care i knew would come along with it.. i gotta say though ive been searching for any kind of hobby that could capture my interest,and at this point i do believe i am hooked!its kinda like gardening only underwater for me,only you dont have to wait so long to enjoy it.anyways long story short,lol rated the article a 10 because i am new to the hobby and it was very easy to understand even for a newby like me and very informative as well...thanks again,shirley in harrison ark... Approved: 3/1/2012
The test seemed pretty even handed. Approved: 6/24/2009
Just learning the saltwater parameters and this article gave the ranges on numerous levels. Now I have something to shoot for in the balance department. Approved: 3/20/2009
Good overall. It would have been nice to see more manufacturer test kits used like Hach Company... the leader in test kits, and to see the ranges used to run the comparison tests. When I say ranges I mean for each parameter and the mg/L or ppm range that each test covers. Approved: 2/24/2009
Grood effort, but the water wasnt tested to standardize the results. Your article only demonstrates the variance between test kits, the true values are still unknown. Approved: 1/26/2009
good Approved: 1/26/2009
The best way for everyone to test his water is to get a botel of real florida sea watwr, test it with his testing kit (dos not mater what kit you are using becous now you have a real perimiter to comper with)and then folow the same perimiters with his testing kit Approved: 1/26/2009
Would be interesting to see the test on a "higer nutrient" type tank that would give PO4 and NO3 readings. I also agree it would be nice to see how close these test kits are to an actual reference sample. Approved: 1/26/2009
There were no controls in the system. There should have been a stock solution used to compair results Approved: 1/25/2009
It would have been helpful to see which ones are actually reading the correct reading, if thats possible. Thanks Keith for all the information. I guess for the price the API wouldnt be such a bad pick would it. What I do is use the API kid for KH, but I like the Tetra square container better, so I saved that and use it with the API kit, it easyier to shake. You get more test with the API than with the Tetra, but the Tetra has a better container. Its holds same amount. Approved: 1/25/2009
I think you need to start over again. And test a tank that has been aged. And just test and show the result of each manufacture. And then come to your conclusion. This article was slightly informative but missing substance. Approved: 1/25/2009
Well Im still waiting for the results of which one turn out to be better. I notice from most readers comments most where left hanging. Where are the final results? Which one was better than the other? Still a lot of unanswered question Approved: 1/25/2009
Should have compared test kit results to a known sample. Approved: 1/25/2009
It shows or "proves" nothing. Why not make it a real test and use actual known refernce samples to determine if they are accurate??? Approved: 1/24/2009
When will they produce one continuous monitor? Approved: 1/24/2009
I have to agree that the comparison doesnt have any value. The summary on different elements is a good primer. Approved: 1/24/2009
Really did not give any useful info. What about cost for each test? What manufacture had the best products? Which do you recommend using? That would have been helpful Approved: 1/24/2009
Great article. You often read about people using Salifert test kits on forums, but it is nice to see someone take the time to try other kits and give the results. Approved: 1/24/2009
totally useless read. different test kits resulting in wide ranges with no reference. what was the purpose of this? which test kits are more accurate than others? did any of the kits measure the respected parameters accurately? Mg+ test kits results ranged from 1200-1500 Ca+ test kits results ranged from 325-400 Alk test kits results ranged from 7dkh-11.5dkh results with ranges like these are likely to create issues that are not really there. someone may want to adjust something that might no need adjusting and cause a bigger problem then the original perceived problem. we need to know the actual parameters. i mean on the Ca+ test alone the API kit tested at 380 while Seachems kits tested the Ca+ at 325, both tests done on the same day around the same time. do you dose or not dose, which kit got it right? all result are pretty much useless here, some kits are more consistant than others but are they consistantly wrong. anyone reading this dont use this to find which kit is best for Approved: 1/24/2009
What was the control for the testing? What were the real values -vs- the values rendered? So based on the title of the article, what was compared, what were the end results. Seems like wasted effort to me. Approved: 1/24/2009
Good article but would have been better with a final table which summarized the findings. People will still read the article but should also have the choice of simply going to the findings in a single place. Approved: 1/24/2009
I was disappointed not to see the Mg results including the Elos Mg test kit so I was not able to compare it (the one I use) to the other test kits. None of the electronic test kits were used which I was interested in since Ive only used the titration method and had thought to go to electronic. They might have given a base of comparison to the titration test kits. All in all I was expecting a rating of some kind for the top-end test kits instead of just results. Approved: 1/24/2009
Bingo, without an expensive lab test as a baseline this article is just a light read with no real meaning. Ive done similar tests and the numbers between kits go waaaay further out of whack than what he had. Approved: 1/24/2009
About the only thing useful in this article is the listing for the length of time each test takes. No reference point for any of the values tested makes it impossible to know which kit is the most accurate. Its nice to know that some of these kits are fairly precise (i.e. produce repeatable results when correct procedure is followed), but if they are inaccurate to begin with, precision really doesnt help. Approved: 1/24/2009
I would havwe liked to see it test against a common, or have it lab tested against these test kits to show which one is the true.... now i dont know which test kit to trust, and i think that is the main thing, is being able to test correctly..... Approved: 1/24/2009
Useful info on the time for the various tests by different manufacturers. The data is hard to use to compare for accuracy bewtween the various kits, with up to 20% variability in the alk, calcium and magnesium kits (would need multiple tests on standardized samples in different ranges, and reproducibility with multiple different users). Overall, I think more reviews like this are useful to see that there are significant variability between kits, and we should continue to strive for better ease of use and accuracy. Approved: 1/24/2009
There is no reference. We already know test kit results vary, what we need to know is which test kit gives the most accurate result consistently. So you got four different answers to four different test kits, Am I missing something or did you forget the part that said "our independent lab found the water levels to be...."? Approved: 1/24/2009
The variance between test kits of 2.6 dKh and 300 on Magnesium is very significant in my opinion. The article is basically useless without knowing which test kit got it right. Approved: 1/24/2009
There is some useful information here but overall the article falls a bit short. It would have been good to see testing against a lab sample or lab analysis of the tested water to compare the test kits to a known. Maybe they are all off. Well never know. Why werent the electronic monitors tested against the test kits? And why was pH not included? I can understand not including Strontium and Iodine (as I am sure most hobbiests do not test these) but pH? Pretty critical. How easy the tests were to perform and what range they test would have also been helpful. Approved: 1/24/2009
How come LaMotte was not included in the testing? While expensive, they are extremely accurate, and may have given a better result as to the accuracy of the others. Approved: 1/24/2009
I think that the author was so careful to be "fair" that he left out which kits were easier to work with. Also, since many of his numbers were zero, how good are the kits with problems? I DID like the discussion of all the chemicals and what they mean for the reef aqauarium. Approved: 1/24/2009
Our club compared test kits a little over a year ago. I will have to go and dig out those results and compare. Approved: 1/24/2009
It would have been more valuable to address accuracy if the water was tested against a known sample. Approved: 1/24/2009
Thank you Paul. Approved: 1/24/2009
I consider myself an experienced reef aquarist. My aquarium is going on 5 years old, maintaining Corals, Ritteri Anemones and various fish. Like the author of this article, I tend to neglect testing the water regularly as I should. I even neglect doing regular water changes. I do dose my tank regularly with Magnesium, Stronium and Iodine. I cant remember the last time I added calcium, although Im sure its needed the corals say differently. Everything continues to flurrish. As my own personal opinion, regarding the tests, I prefer to use Salifert, as the testing methods seem to be more precise than any others that I have used. Everyone has an opinion. Thanks Keith for putting this atical together, I feel it will help many beginning reefers! Approved: 1/23/2009
Its important for people to review products and analyze the results to help those that need to buy a proven product thats what I do personally for Project Dibs write about Products ( 1st article in the making ). I really enjoyed what he had to say and I will take the time to stop procrastinating on testing all my Reef tanks and other saltwater tanks and setups. Nice work Approved: 1/23/2009
nothing about the accurateness of the tests. Not even very much detail on pros/cons to each test kit. Approved: 1/23/2009
Am I missing something here? Where is the gold standard? How do you know if the tests are any good if the values you are measuring are unknown to begin with? Simply comparing to each other is of greatly limited value. Due to being partially color blind some comments on ease of interpretation of results would have been more useful. For example, it is easier for me to read phosphate test kits that use shades of blue instead of yellow and green. Approved: 1/23/2009
Perhaps the test could have been done with a base test with a known result like those calibration solutions and the test kits tested against it to see how accurate it would come up. Approved: 1/23/2009
Good information. Seemingly unbiased. Wish that you would have also compared kits for pH and Iodine. Approved: 1/23/2009
Other than comparing the amount of time it takes to do each test and maybe consistency of the tests from one date to the other, it really gives no insight as to the usefulness of any test in particular. I know you dont want to bash any of your suppliers but this "head to head" has little to no real value and doesnt help me decide which test is better for me. On the other hand the author did a great job with the write-up and I would read other articles presented by him. Approved: 1/23/2009
Alkalinity is a critical call those test results close????? Approved: 1/23/2009
When i first saw the title of this article, I thought you were going to try and gauge the accuracy of each test, which you did not do. Seeing how long each test took to finish, really doesnt tell us much about each manufacturer, or how trustworthy their test kits are (or how accurate). That would be a great topic to do an article on. Approved: 1/23/2009
Habib (Salifert) actually has a color for his Alk kit. It was on the web at one point, I wish I could get my hands on it agian. Approved: 1/23/2009
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Created on 1/22/2009.
Last Modified on 2/12/2009.
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