Knowledgebase > How to Get Rid of Reef Aquarium Pests by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad
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Q10984 - HOWTO: How to Get Rid of Reef Aquarium Pests by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad
To many reef keepers biodiversity is the key to a beautiful tank and a healthy ecosystem. Some of my favorite moments enjoying my aquariums are discovering a new hitchhiker that has come in on my live rock. Many organisms such as sponges, feather dusters, snails, and the occasional coral can help beatify a tank and are often proof of a thriving mini ecosystem. But some stowaways cause more trouble than they are worth. Some can be dangerous to your fish, while others can harm you, and if released into the wild some can harm the environment. This article will focus on the identification and removal of some of nastiest and hardest to remove of these organisms.

Aiptasias/Majano Anemones

Description:

Aiptasias or glass anemones are small light brown, almost clear, anemones usually less than an inch long. However, they can grow to 3-4 inches long. They possess thin long pointed tentacles. Majanos on the other hand can take many disguises. They too are small ½ - ¾ inch long, and come in many different colors from green to brown. Its tentacles are short and rounded. Often these anemones are confused with button polyps, zooanthids, or other small anemones.

Aiptasia Majano Anemone
Problem:

The problem with these organisms is two-fold. They pack a powerful sting that can injure surrounding corals and fish. Also, if left unchecked they reproduce quickly and can take over a tank. Often the inexperienced aquarist will become excited to see a new anemone in their tank. That excitement quickly turns to frustration when these anemones multiply and begin to dominate the aquascape.

Solution:

There are a couple of different things you can do to fight back against these anemones. First is physically picking them off of the live rock. This method doesn't always work because these anemones can regrow from the smallest remnants. Another solution is finding a predator to eat them. Peppermint shrimp are recommended for Aiptasias and Copperbanded Butterflyfish might eat both anemones. The problem with each of these species is finding an individual that will actually eat the anemones. You can never be 100% sure what an animal will want to eat. Also the Butterfly fish may pick on other coral polyps, such as zooanthids when it has eaten all of the Aiptasia and majanos. The best solution for these anemones is using chemical agents to kill them. Products such as Joe's Juice, Red Sea Aiptasia-X and Aqua Vision Aquatics Aiptasia Solution can be very effective in getting rid of this problem. The real solution is vigilance. After the initial removal you must check on a regular basis for any return intruders. Even the smallest anemone can recolonize your aquarium.


Bristle Worms

Description:

Bristle worms vary in length, 1 to 12 inches, and color, red, orange to brown. They are easily identified by the hair like bristles protruding from each segment on both sides of it body. They are mostly nocturnal. The best way to find them is waiting until it is dark and using a flashlight to search your tank.

Bristle Worm
Problem:

There is still some debate on weather or not most bristle worms are actually a problem. Recently, most experts have said that small bristle worms are helpful at eating detritus. It's when they become larger, most people agree, they start to cause problems. When they reach 4-5 inches there is not enough detritus to sustain their diet. This is when they can start to attack coral, other invertebrates, and even fish. There are some worms that rely solely on SPS corals for their food supply. You will know right away if you have one of these species, since you corals will be affected.

Solution:

The best solution for bristle worms is physical removal by trapping them. There are many commercial traps available on the market. Also, the Acclimate, by Reef Gently, is another useful tool for removing these imposing polychaetes. Just remember that the bristles can deliver a painful sting and larger specimens can and will bite, so handle with caution, preferably with a pair of tongs or gloves.


Mantis Shrimp

Description:

Mantis shrimp look like a mix between a shrimp and a lobster. They have the tail and body of a lobster the head of a shrimp. They possess a pair of raptorial claw that can either spear or club its prey depending on the species of mantis. They are one of the most aggressive and deadly accurate hunters in the ocean. Of the more than 450 known species, most are small, 2-3 inches. Others, however, can grow to 12 inches. Mantis shrimp in the home aquarium are often very elusive and hard to find until it's too late. A loud clicking sound coming from inside the tank and your fish are disappearing are good indicators that you have a mantis shrimp.

Mantis Shrimp
Problem:

The problem with mantis shrimp is simple to identify. They will kill almost anything in the tank. Also the clubbing species are capable of breaking glass aquariums.

Solution:

There are many commercially available traps that work well in capturing mantis shrimp. Caution should be taken when putting your hands in your tank as these are aggressive hunters and capable of inflicting a powerful punch. The strike of the larger species have been measured to equal the force of a .22 caliber bullet.

Special Note:

Some people have started keeping mantis shrimp in species specific tank. They are truly fascinating animals. They are known to have the most advanced vision and the fastest strike of any animal in the world. If you decide to keep one, be careful and please do your research.


Caulerpa taxifolia

Description:

Caulerpa taxifolia is a marine algae that resembles a small fern. Its branches are feather-like, 1 to 3 inches long, and grow upward out of the substrate.

Caulerpa taxifolia
Problem:

This algae grows quickly and can easily take over a tank. It is also toxic to fish. Caulerpa taxifolia has been designated a U.S. Federal Noxious Weed and is currently prohibited in the U.S. It has reached this designation because if released into the wild it can overrun entire areas of local ecosystems. This has been the case in California and the Mediterranean Sea. Even though it is banned, importation is possible since it can grow from the smallest fragment left on live rock.

Solution:

Special care should be taken when getting rid of these algae. It is recommended that you place it in a bag and freeze it before disposing of it in the garbage. This said the best way get it out of your tank is simply to pick it out by hand. There are no known predators as of yet, since it does contain a toxin.


Rock/Hairy Crabs

Description:

Most people can recognize the standard crab, so I won't try to reinvent the wheel. The focus here though is not hermit crabs which can be helpful cleaners. Some standard crabs can also be cleaners but it may not be worth the risk if it starts eating other inhabitants.

Rock/Hairy Crab
Problem:

When most people discover a hitchhiking crab, they are elated, as I know I was when I found one. Joy quickly turns to disgust most times when the crab starts pick at coral and sometimes attacking and capturing fish. Most crabs are opportunistic omnivores eating anything they get there little claws on.

Solution:

Make sure to quarantine all live rock to avoid introducing these to your tank. If a crab does manage to sneak by (they are very sneaky) you may have to pull out a lot of rock to get to them.


Acropora eating Flatworms

Description:

This flatworm is opaque to white in color, and is mostly oval in shape. They are very difficult to notice in the aquarium. If you have an Acropora that is not doing well, a closer look at the newly bared coral skeleton may reveal tiny brown egg sacs. This is your best indication that you have a problem.

Acropora eating Flatworm
Problem:

The main problem with this flat worm isn't that they will eat your acropora; it's that they will devour it. As there name states they only attack Acropora. Colonies that are being attacked first exhibit a loss of coloration and eventually tissue recession from their base.

Solution:

Along with other invaders discussed in this article, there are many options to try when addressing a flat worm infestation. First thing to do is remove all Acropora from the infected display, even apparently healthy colonies. There may be free swimming individuals in the tank. Without a food source they will starve. In quarantine you can use medications such as Salifert's Flatworm eXit, or Tropic Marin Pro Coral Cure; follow the directions on the bottle. Freshwater dips are also helpful, as long as the temperature and pH are the same as the quarantine tank. Ten to fifteen seconds in the fresh water is usually adequate to loosen the flatworms hold. Make sure to shake off as many worms before placing the colony back in quarantine.

Another option it to do a Lugol's iodine dip. The downside to these treatments is that they do not affect the eggs. The best way to get rid of the eggs is to scrap them off the coral.

Whichever option, or combination of options you choose, you will need to keep the Acropora in quarantine for at least a month to allow for the flatworms in the display to starve. During this time you will need to do 100% water changes of the quarantine water making sure to clean the tank well to kill any free swimming individuals.


Montipora eating Nudibranchs

Description:

These tiny animals commonly called sea slugs and are related to snails. They are no bigger than a grain of rice, white, with ruffled edges. There eggs are tiny white dots laid in tight clumps.

Montipora eating Nudibranch
Problem:

Again the problem is in the name- They eat only Montipora corals.

Solution:

Similar to the treatment of Acropora Eating Flatworms, all Montipora corals need to be moved to quarantine. There they can be removed from the coral using a siphon hose. Using an airline hose works the best. As with the flatworms, freshwater dips and medication may also be useful. Use the same regimen for water changes as mentioned above.


Red Bugs

Description:

Red bugs as they are commonly looks like a small red or orange mite. It is actually a very small crustacean about a ½ mm long.

Problem:

These little mites will feed on Acropora. In high numbers they will cause a colony of Acropora to begin losing coloration. If the proper actions are not taken the health of the coral will degrade until it is too late.

Red Bugs
Solution:

Treatment for these little mites can be difficult. Most have had success with Lugol's solution. Quarantine is the most important treatment. Once an outbreak is isolated it is much easier to contain. On a side note these are a natural food source for Dragonface Pipefish (Corythoichthys haematopterus). Some people have introduced red bugs into a pipefish tank as a supplement to normal feedings.


Red Slime Algae

Description:

Red slime algae isn't an algae at all. It is a colony of cyanobacteria that can imitate a blanket of algae. It can come in a variety of colors from red to blue-green.

Problem:

While cyanobacteria are present in low numbers in virtually every body of water, including your aquarium, they can be an unsightly problem in large numbers. They often take advantage of poor water quality including elevated nitrates and phosphates. Like algae this bacteria needs light to survive and will cover live rock, coral, and anything else not move in your tank to get it.

Red Slime Algae
Solution:

Once it gets foothold in your tank, cyanobacteria are hard to stop. The sheets of bacteria you already have need to be siphoned away during your next water change. You will need to address water quality to avoid its return. Your water should be tested for nitrates and phosphates. Consider feeding less, filtering more, or both. Also think about using RO/DI water since tap water contains a normal level of phosphates. There are also several products on the market that can help. Ultralife Red Slime Remover, Boyd Chemi-Clean, and Blue Life Red Slime Control all work really well when used as directed.


Marine Ich

Description:

Marine Ich is a saltwater parasite called Cryptocaryon irritans. It is invisible to the naked eye, and can only be identified after a fish in infected. Tiny white spots will appear on the skin. These spots are actually the fish's immune response to the parasite. This parasite has a complicated lifecycle and can only be treated in its free swimming larval state.

Marine Ich
Symptoms:

Your infected fish will be lethargic and will have erratically swimming, breathing problems, loss of appetite, cloudy eyes, an increased mucous layer, and frayed fins. Because home aquariums are closed systems these parasites multiply quickly and overwhelm your fish.

Solution:

There are many treatments out there that can help cure Cryptocaryon. For fish-only systems you can lower salinity to 1.009 specific gravity or 14ppt. You can not use this method for reef tanks since it will affect your corals and other invertebrates. There are also several medications on the market: Ruby Reef Kick-Ich, Chem-Marin Stop Parasite, or SeaChem ParaGuard. Read all instructions carefully before using a medication on you system.


Prevention

Sometimes the hardest thing to do is getting rid of an organism once it has been introduced to a tank. Along with everything else in aquarium keeping, the best solution is prevention. I prefer to quarantine everything, before it goes into one of my tanks. A quarantine tank is especially helpful for new live rock. I wait to see what comes out of the rock and if I like the hitchhiker, I'll keep it. If not, the stowaway never makes it into my aquarium. This quarantine time also serves as a final curing time for my live rock, eliminating any chance that it will foul my tank.



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Approved Comments...
Very helpful :) Approved: 6/28/2013
It covered the common pests and offered solution, good pics were useful in identifying them. I have some sort of slow growing organism that is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick dark in color that completely covers rocks and is very difficult or impossible to remove, any suggestions would be great. Approved: 11/22/2012
Well thought out and very informational. Thanks Approved: 11/7/2012
How about those mini "starfish" that proliferate in many tanks? Are they a true pest? How do you get rid of them for good? Approved: 10/29/2012
SHORT AND TO THE POINT IN LAYMANS TERMS.WHAT ABOUT THE BAD ANEMONIES ? Approved: 10/29/2012
Thanks for putting this info out there. You guys (and ladies too) are very knowledgeable and are great about sharing what you know. Approved: 10/29/2012
Easy read with solutions. Approved: 10/29/2012
This artical has alot of helpful information thanks for putting it out there Approved: 10/27/2012
How do I get rid of bryopsis? Approved: 10/27/2012
Lot of good info Approved: 10/27/2012
Very helpful. Having a research index to find out how individuals dealt with this might be very informative. Joe or Jane ordinary person might have made a discovery. they, we, often do. Approved: 10/26/2012
because most of the people the we star a reef we need this information Approved: 10/26/2012
You open my whole world. Thanks guys. Approved: 10/26/2012
Ive had my share of red slime so I know somewat of this, but what about Bubble Algea? That is also a pest. Approved: 10/26/2012
I learned a lot from this...thanx Approved: 10/26/2012
I found it very useful, but it could be more extensive with other types of pests (other algae,etc.) Approved: 10/26/2012
"Red slime algae isnt an algae at all. It is a colony of cyanobacteria that can imitate a blanket of algae." Cyanobacteria is algae. And the cyanobacteria that is an aquarium pest is not colonial, but rather filamentous. Approved: 10/26/2012
good information Approved: 9/5/2012
excellent article : ) Approved: 3/22/2012
Ive heard about fire worms too, not sure if its the same as a bristle work but I was told you dont want them. Approved: 3/3/2012
Great article. I am having a problem with these pests and you offered some great suggestions. I now need to order some for my tank! Approved: 11/21/2011
The article pointed out numerous pest and had pictures to reference as well as the solution. Approved: 11/1/2011
very good article! it covers all the bases Approved: 10/31/2011
Excellent article about the bad critters in our tanks. I have Bristleworms and wont remove them as they do keep the bottom of the tanks clean. However, never touch one , you can see on my site just what the outcome is if you do. Thanks Approved: 10/30/2011
Nicely done! Approved: 10/30/2011
I have had problems with ick before and decided to just let my fish die and just start over. There was no way to catch everybody without removing every rock and coral, plus I had a limited amount of fish in my tank @ the time. I search the internet long and hard trying to find an “alternative” method to treat ick. I kept reading about garlic extreme and figured what the heck, it has worked for me and has worked over and over again. Is the ick still there, yes I would assume it is but it isn’t affecting the fish. Approved: 10/30/2011
very interesting Approved: 10/29/2011
Helpful thanks Approved: 10/29/2011
Added: A good solution for bristle worms and some other small insect like pests is the six-line wrasse. Their diet is mostly on copepods, anphipods, but do really well on just about any marine fish food when those run out. The Mantis Shrimp makes for a fun species to watch. Many people collect and study them. There are hundreds of species. You can definitely find someone who would want to take the "pest" off your hands or get it IDed. Smashers/Clubbers will not all break the tank. Think of size to power ratio. I own a 2.5 inch neogonodactylus wennerae. Hes been living in a 10 gallon with a damsel and no issues. I feed him frozen shrimp and, when he gets really hungry, say I (intentionally) forget to feed him a couple days, hell take out a hermit or snail. Its the spearers you have to worry about fish. But, if you cant catch it fight away, just try target feeding with shrimp or squid so itll rely less on your tanks Approved: 10/29/2011
A lot of great info!! Thanks!! Approved: 10/29/2011
Suggested solutions included multiple products I have used with success. This article provides a few alternates of which I was not aware. Approved: 10/29/2011
Some of your suggested Ich cures in a bottle are smoke and mirrors. Copper or Hyposalinity per the book are the only true means. Approved: 10/29/2011
Excellent information, thank you Approved: 10/29/2011
Always educational.I have had very good luck getting rid of Aiptasias using a 60cc/2oz suringe and taking a cup of boiling water. I fill the suringe ,place the end right on the Aiptasias. I have never had them come back and its much safer the most additives.Saying that, you must also use your head so as to not have any peripheral damage. So far Im still batting 1000. Approved: 10/29/2011
We really need help getting rid of our green algae! We have lots of it! And then, we had a lot of bristle worms -- and I mean a lot! Every week we would do a water change, and I would take out as much substrate as I could -- and rinse that under hot water. I literally got rid of over a thousand worms! After the green algae showed up -- I realized I was free of the bristle worms! Still have no clue as to why!??? Approved: 10/29/2011
Helpful. Thanks Approved: 10/28/2011
Add more pictures. This way a novice can more easily identify the invasive species. Otherwise, a helpful article. Approved: 10/28/2011
Excellent. Please more content on potentially dangerous neudebranches in future articles. Approved: 10/28/2011
i had absolutely no luck with chemical solutions for battling majanos,i believe in fact that the majanos multiplied faster in response. so i purchased a racoon butterfly. i trained him by putting him in a small tank introducing rocks with majanos attached. then introduced him to the main tank. He has been in my tank for months and there are no majanos i can find. i have weaned him onto frozen shrimp and he hasnt touched my corals not even my clam. Approved: 10/28/2011
I WOULD HAVE BENEFITED GREATLY ON MORE INFORMATION FOR IDENTFYING (CLEARER PHOTOS, MULTIPLE PHOTOS) AND RIDDING THESE PESTS-WE CAN NEVER GET ENOUGH INFO ON SUCH A TOPIC, ESPECIALLY THAT I AM A NOVICE REEF HOBBYIST. BUT THANKS IT WAS GOOD OVER ALL. Approved: 9/15/2011
great article I was starting to give up hope due to rock crabs and red alge thank you Approved: 2/10/2011
Very detail information thank you Approved: 12/22/2010
Very helpful, did not know that some of the pest were so aggressive. I hope you can continue with additional articles on these subjects. Approved: 11/30/2010
Thank you! Approved: 11/9/2010
Great Stuff Approved: 11/8/2010
Knowledge is power! Approved: 11/7/2010
Very complete helpful discussion of a common issue. Approved: 11/6/2010
I learned some good stuff and need all the facts for a more enjoyable hobby and healthy reef and fish tank . Approved: 11/3/2010
Good general overview. My recommendation mirrors several below, links to either chat rooms or other article that dig in more detail. Approved: 11/3/2010
Red flatworms (planaria) - I had a problem with these guys, and a green mandarin wiped them out in no time. Luckily I have a lot of pods and hes been happy and growing the last 9 months. Approved: 11/1/2010
Very good. The only thing I wold have enjoyed more is if it was longer and more comprehensive. Thanks. Good job. Approved: 10/31/2010
I appreciate the information being given without bias. There was good and bad about most of the subjects, with fact rather than oppinions. Overall a very well written article. Approved: 10/31/2010
Informative, unbiased, gave variety of remedies Approved: 10/31/2010
I have tiny black serpant type starfish that attack my Stony Corals. Any recommendations to get rid of these would help. Approved: 10/31/2010
Nice article. Offering solutions is great. Approved: 10/31/2010
I would have rated this aq 10 if there were more expliccit information on certain pests not covered in depth; and the treatment plan for "Bristle Worms" is not sufficient to cover the subject in my opinion. The picture of the nAccdlinate is certainly lacking in both description and clarity. Approved: 10/31/2010
thank you very much, very informative!! Approved: 10/30/2010
good info when talking with other people about their reefs Approved: 10/30/2010
Awesome article with accurate solutions! This has long been a needed resource for the hobbyist. Approved: 10/30/2010
make picture bigger so you can see detail or allow to magnify picture Approved: 10/30/2010
as a beginner it was helpful.i was given 14 gal bio cube as a gift. 11 months later and $$$ i have already dealt with ich and aiptasias. lost $$$ of fish from the ich and i was lucky when the 2 peppermint shrimp i picked up cleaned the aiptasias that over ran my tank. Approved: 10/30/2010
It is a good condensed list of the things to watch for AND what to do about it if you do have or get the problem. I wouldve liked some info on hair algae though. At one time my tank was taken over by Aiptasias. I used the injectable products which worked so so. I then got a Copperband butterfly & the job was done... No more Aiptasias!! Approved: 10/30/2010
Great article. Thanks for taking the time to provide basic education. Approved: 10/30/2010
Second the bubble algae Approved: 10/30/2010
This article is informative on a general basis and gives me an idea of what I need to research more. Approved: 10/30/2010
Definitely hit on the main tank problem critters! Approved: 10/30/2010
Any time I can be informed in laymans terms and with photos, it is very beneficial. Thank you!Kathleen Hall Approved: 10/30/2010
Thanks. Approved: 10/30/2010
I agree that it is a challenge to get rid if aiptasias, and I have been successful in the past with peppermint shrimp. they worked until the supply was gone and then moved on to fish food and finally started on my corals, so they had to go. Approved: 10/30/2010
For old guys like me it would help if some of the pictures were enlargeable. Approved: 10/30/2010
Good to address pests. I wouldve like to have seen matted filefish for aipasia control. They do a much better job than peppermint shrimp or CBB. And they are compatible with wrasses. How about black bugs? They can decimate a LPS colony in a day or two. Use Interceptor-once a week for 3 weeks. Red slime(cyanobacteria)- increasing waterflow may also help to control it. Approved: 10/30/2010
Good info! Approved: 10/30/2010
lots of info in one place presented in a professional way Approved: 10/30/2010
Would have liked to see some info on bubble algae. Approved: 10/29/2010
cause I have a hairy rock crab I was excited when I found this hitch hiker now I gotta find a way 2 extract him asap Approved: 10/29/2010
This is great for me because I just started a reef tank, and I did not know about any of these! This is great because now I can look for them on my live rock, and now I know how to get rid of them. Thank you! Approved: 10/29/2010
always good info even if a review for some. Approved: 10/29/2010
really helped Approved: 6/10/2010
It covered the most common hitchhikers. It didnt just talk about the problem, but offerred a solution. Approved: 11/11/2009
lots of good ideas here, but i disagree with picking aptasia off the rocks because they will multiply so fast from the torn tissue or as someone mentioned that they release something that just reattaches to the rock wherever it lands and you will have a lot more than you had before. the copperband butterfly works good for me. Approved: 11/5/2009
I had great success against Aiptasias with Pepermint Shrimp so I wouldnt jump on chemicals before trying all natural predators. I used to have a lot of Aiptasias in my refugium until I dropped 2 Peppermint Shrimps in there; they got rid of all of it. I know I have at least one Bristle worm 5 inches long in my 500 gal system and I havent seen (nor do I expect) any damage from it. Hes gotta be too busy processing detritus... One thing I wouldve liked to see was sound advice on one big pest: Hair Algae. Especially a hands-on test and confirmation done by Marine Depot regarding APIs product effectiveness for marine/saltwater tanks against Hair Algae. I would like to see a section in the "Solution" paragraph that reads "Product ABC tested by Marine Depot Lab in such and such conditions with XYZ results"; rather than use this chemical and the other chemical and "Read all instructions carefully before using a medication on you system". I find that half-baked to be honest... Otherwise good Approved: 11/3/2009
Good article, and to add to natural remedies - The Arrow crab is very effective at attacking and eating bristle worms. Almost twice weekly I find my arrow crab munching down on ( at least part ) of a bristle worm. I dont mind having the worms in my tank, however the larger ones DO cause damage to various "wanted" specimens in my tank. Approved: 11/3/2009
GREAT Approved: 11/3/2009
I find all your articles helpful, but I too was looking for information on Hair Algae. I have it in my 120 gallon reef tank and cant cure. I just put a Ozonizer on my protein skimmer but it is not working. The last time I used the Ozonizer it worked fine. Approved: 11/3/2009
Very informative, but I was looking for information on dealing with Hair Algae; a problem I cant seem to cure. Ive used Sea Hares who usually die off soon, snails, hermit crabs and Rabbit Fish and I do use RO water in my 20 gal nano reef. I dont have the problem in my 45 gallon fish only (with a couple anemones) tank. Approved: 11/2/2009
Thanks for this. Im a novice, and these articles and pics are helpful. Keep it up! Approved: 11/2/2009
Very disappointing to see you have Bristle worms on this list. It is common and inaccurate to consider these powerful and almost entirely benign detritivors a pest. These specimens help turn sand beds over and only attack the dead or dying animals in an aquarium. Approved: 11/2/2009
most of us think something new is good. maybe not, thanks Approved: 11/2/2009
It is very informative and helpful. Thanks Shirley Approved: 11/2/2009
The section on the aiptasia dont mention the worst problem with them and the mentioned treatments. The article mentions trying to pull them off the rock for example which is likely to cause the anemone to release zygotes or planula (which ever is technically correct.) I have had poor results with Joes Juice and similar chemical treatments as well. Sure they kill the anemone you put them on but unfortunately you end up with dozens of tiny aiptasia instead because they again release zygotes/planula. Before you know it you have gone from a problem with one or two large aiptaisias to having hundreds of tiny ones which of course each grow to full size. Approved: 11/1/2009
Keeping your customers up to date. Its part of your value. Keeping the education alive Approved: 11/1/2009
Enough info to get ID pests - to know what to look for and names if a person wants to know more. Very helpful. Approved: 11/1/2009
Right to the point with what I needed to know. Approved: 11/1/2009
Wheres pyramid snails or zoanthid eating nudibranches? Approved: 11/1/2009
luv it Approved: 11/1/2009
It answered several questions we needed to know about. Thank you, send more articles like this. Approved: 11/1/2009
Its hard to find information that you need to correct problems in your tank. Approved: 11/1/2009
standard marketing material, not too bad except the treatment for red bugs, monti eating nudis are incorrect and incomplete (since the treatments are not in the commerical products MD sells). Approved: 11/1/2009
I have used some of the solutions for a couple of the problems and they worked for me. Now Im working on the Caulerpa taxifolia problem Approved: 11/1/2009
tank you so much for this info aquarist need to have this info for a healty aquarium reef at home please keep posting this great information god bless you. Approved: 10/31/2009
This the best parasite prevention article Ive ever come across on the internet so far. Thank You for such comprehensive information. Approved: 10/31/2009
A nice overview of some aquarium problems, but I noticed a distinct absence of the topic of hair algae-a prevalent thorn in side. Approved: 10/31/2009
Anyone who pays attention to their tank will notice these things and if they care they will research and get rid of them this is basic knowledge. Approved: 10/31/2009
Still learning and this is exactly what applies to my tanks at the present time. Approved: 10/31/2009
very good imformation Approved: 10/31/2009
this is one of the best articles containing alot of the most common problems, both in discriptions and solutions. Approved: 10/31/2009
because it will save me time money and a lot of headachs over time and it is very good information to keep in mind to keep my ecosystem running in top condition.because i spend a lot of money on my fish and reef tank and i read every bit of information i can find to save me frustration and money,also i buy the best product on the market to help keep my tank running good and i do frequent water changes and try to avoid using lots of chemicals.thanks Darren Approved: 10/31/2009
It help a lot specially to beginner Approved: 10/31/2009
Very educational information and excellent cure adbvice Approved: 10/31/2009
Very helpfull on a few problems problems I had. Approved: 10/31/2009
Very informative. Note: An Arrow Crab will get rid of those Bristle worms also Approved: 10/31/2009
the information was well presented with solutions to problems when available. very helpful to new aquariasts. thanks Approved: 10/30/2009
Bergia Nudibranchs will totally wipe out all the aiptasia from an aquarium and when they are all gone the die off unfortunatly, but you wont have to worry anymore about the glass anemones. Also, Bistle worms can be cured with 6 line wrass, Fire Hawk fish, and an Arrow crab will do wonders on these little critters. Approved: 10/30/2009
The "reef aquarium" is a whole new experience for us and we are having difficulty getting ours started because we cleaned our live rock too thoroughly when we got it and so far have only two clown fish that have survived in our 180 gal tank. Any information about pests, trace elements, things to look for to maintain a healthy tank ar helpful. Thank you! Approved: 10/30/2009
I liked having a picture, knowing what problems they cause and how to get rid of them. I know there are varing opinions on this subject but this was easily understood and straight to the point Approved: 10/30/2009
Article Details
Created on 10/29/2009.
Last Modified on 10/26/2012.
Last Modified by Dot Yuson.
Article has been viewed 55680 times.
Rated 9 out of 10 based on 422 votes.
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