Marine Depot Education Center - Knowledgebase

I am about to start up my Saltwater Aquirium once again. I am setting it up for reef. The aquirium I have now is only a 20 gal. and would like to possibly convert it to a refugium and get a larger aquirium for the fish and plant life. What is the largest aquirium a 20 gal. refugium can feed?

Administrator — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:31:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

A refugium, as defined in the aquarium hobby, is as an area or refuge where micro-organisms can live and breed without the worry of predation from fish or other organisms. Macro-algaes are also kept in refugiums to aid in waste (nitrate and phosphate) removal from the aquarium’s water. Many people setup refugiums as part of the filtration system for their saltwater aquarium, especially with reef tanks, where nutrient control is a huge concern.

Besides the roll of a micro-organism farm to help feed corals, fish and other invertebrates in your tank and a nutrient control filter, refugiums also help to stabilize the pH of your tank. During the daytime, while the lights are on over your reef tank, the different algae will photosynthesize. The algae will take in CO2 and release 02 while producing sugars to feed themselves. But during the nighttime, they will respire, meaning they take in O2 and release CO2. The CO2 produces carbonic acid which will lower the pH. By running the refugiums light on a reverse daylight period (opposite of the main tank’s light) the algae in the refugium will help balance out the CO2 and O2 production and maintain a more stable pH level.

So what size refugium should you put on your tank?

While there are many different opinions on this, I feel most people will agree a refugium should be at least 10 to 15% of the tank’s volume. So for a 55 gallon tank, for example, a refugium should be at least 5.5 to 8 gallons for it to function properly for that size tank.

But what if you don’t have the space available for something that size? Will a smaller refugium work? “Kind of” is the best answer I can respond with for that question. In my humble opinion, something is better than nothing, but you certainly can’t expect a smaller refugium to perform as well as a larger one.

What to use to light a

Hi,I just cleaned my turtle tank saturday and i looked great the first 24hrs and then it turned cloudy. The type of filter system is an under the stones grid with an upspout with a charcoal filter at top. Not sure what this type is really but i have two of these towers. can you suggest what i can do to clear this. This is a tank for an aquatic turtle and 12 x 24.

Administrator — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:52:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Turtles can be very messy and foul up the water very quickly in a tank. To help break down the waste they produce bacteria form on filter media to help break it down. The type of system you have is called an undergravel filter (UGF). It utilizes the gravel on the bottom of the tank to become the filter media for bacteria to cling to. If you take this gravel out and wash it while cleaning the tank you can kill off the benficial bacteria that have formed on it. When cleaning the tank, I would recommend only giving the gravel a quick rinse under room temperature water. This will help to prevent all the good bacteria from being killed off. You will also want to make sure the gravel is covering the plates completely. If the turtle digs the gravel up and exposes the plates, the water being pulled through the plates (by your air pump or water pump) will take the path of least resistance and not go through the gravel.
I have found these types of filters don't work well in turtle tanks since turtles do tend to dig up the gravel quite often and expose the plate. Also many people don't recommend gravel in a turtle tank as the turtles many times will eat the gravel (when feed on their food) and it tend to trap waste as well.
I would recommend going with a submersible filter over the UGF as well as keeping the tank free of gravel.
As far as the cloudy water, that should go away within a few days as the benefical bacteria re-establishes itself. Just make sure you feed very lighting during this time and it wouldn't hurt to change out some of the water as well.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

I bought a Ehiem 1277 canister filter and am not sure of the installation procedure.Instructions are not very detailed.At what depth should the inlet pipe be placed inside the tank?

Administrator — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:39:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Unfortunately I am not familiar with the eheim 1277 canister filter. If you can double check the model number and email us at customercare@marinedepot.com we would be more than happy to assist in setting up your filter.
But for most inlet pipes I recommend having them around 3/4 of the way down to the bottom of the tank. Anywhere from 1/2-3/4 of the way to the bottom should be fine (I prefer closer to the bottom of the tank).
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Are arrow crabs particularly delicate inverts? The reason for the question is this. I have a 55 gallon reef tank set up for about 3 years. I have had 2 Arrow crabs over the last 2 years with each one disappearing after a few weeks. Each Arrow crab was purchased at different places. No predaters are in the tank. Only small reef safe fish. No anemones just mushrooms and various other small coral. All water parameters are perfect and tank cleaned regularly. I am an advanced aquarist and have worke

Administrator — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:31:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
In general arrow crabs tend to be fairly hardy and long lived. From the description of your tank it sounds like it should be a good mix for the arrow crab (mature tank, no predators). Arrow crabs tend to be most sensitive during molting which normally will occur with in a couple of weeks of being introduced to the tank (many times within days) and then about once a month to every other month as they grow. During this time if you have other shrimp or crabs in the tank it is possible the crab is getting attacked.
It doesn't sound like a water quality issue and I would rule out diet (normally it would take longer to "starve" to death). My only guess would be some type of predation during molting. You may also want to check your iodine levels as this is an important element during the molting process. Unfortunately mysterious deaths like this sometimes don't have an exact answer. With the information you have provided, I would say your tank should be perfectly suited for an arrow crab. Unless you are having issues with other invertebrates that molt (that would led me to think something with the water such as low iodine levels), my only thought is some type of predation from something in the tank.
I apologize I wasn't able to give you 100% sure answer to your question.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

which skimmer would you suggest for a 70 gallon tank?

Administrator — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 05:08:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
You didn't mention if you have a sump on your tank, so I will suggest a couple of hang on the tank skimmers as well as a couple of insump skimmers for you.
For hang on skimmers, I have found the AquaC Remora Series to be a very good skimmer at a good price. The CPR BakPak skimmers are also another good option for a hang on the back skimmer. If you want to jump up a bit in price the Deltec skimmers are a great choice.
For in sump skimmers I would suggest looking at the AquaC EV series skimmers, Vertex skimmers or the ASM skimmers. All are very good skimmers at very good prices. If you are looking to invest a little more in a skimmer I would suggest looking at the Deltec skimmers or Hydor skimmers

Anyone know where to get a cheap UV system? Interal or external is fine. Looking for something that is $40 or less.

Administrator — Tue, 17 Nov 2009 04:55:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Without knowing what size tank you have it will be hard to recommend a properly sized sterilzer. I don't think you will find any new sterilizer for the price you are looking for. You may be able to find some used ones, but remember the bulbs should be changed out every 8-12 months, so the "bargin" you are looking at may not be a real bargin if you have to replace the bulb and possibly the quartz sleeve as well.
For inexpensive sterilizers I would recommend looking at the JBJ Submariner or the Mr. Aqua Sterilizers. They will include the pump, so you don't need to buy anything extra for them.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

I have a 125 gal reef tank and in the last few monthes I have been swamped with little star fish everywhere. They are starting to kill a few hard corals and Im at a loss of what to do. I can probably count 20 or 30 at any given time. Any suggestions, is there something that will eat them.

Administrator — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 21:28:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry. It sounds like you may have Asterina starfish in your aquarium. Have a look at this article by Anthony Calfo on starfish, towards the end of the article it talks about them.
If they are truly causing a problem in the tank, manual removal is your best bet. Some people have "trained" harlequin shrimp to eat them (harlequin shrimp feed only on starfish), but if they wipe out the population you will need to start buying starfish to feed the shrimp.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

How to Get Rid of Reef Aquarium Pests by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Administrator — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:26:00 GMT
Abstract:
To many reef keepers biodiversity is the key to a beautiful tank and a healthy ecosystem. Some of my favorite moments enjoying my aquariums are discovering a new hitchhiker that has come in on my live rock. Many organisms such as sponges, feather dusters, snails, and the occasional coral can help beatify a tank and are often proof of a thriving mini ecosystem. But some stowaways cause more trouble than they are worth. Some can be dangerous to your fish, while others can harm you, and if released into the wild some can harm the environment. This article will focus on the identification and removal of some of nastiest and hardest to remove of these organisms.

Aiptasias/Majano Anemones

Description:

Aiptasias or glass anemones are small light brown, almost clear, anemones usually less than an inch long. However, they can grow to 3-4 inches long. They possess thin long pointed tentacles. Majanos on the other hand can take many disguises. They too are small ½ - ¾ inch long, and come in many different colors from green to brown. Its tentacles are short and rounded. Often these anemones are confused with button polyps, zooanthids, or other small anemones.

Problem:

The problem with these organisms is two-fold. They pack a powerful sting that can injure surrounding corals and fish. Also, if left unchecked they reproduce quickly and can take over a tank. Often th

What is the best way to get rid of hair algae in a reef tank

Administrator — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:23:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
There are many ways to battle hair algae, but it really comes down to two main factors: 1) controlling the fuel that is feeding the algae (i.e. dissolved organics like nitrates and phosphates) and 2) having a clean up crew that helps graze upon the algae. Steven Pro wrote a great article about Nuisance Algae that should help you out quite a bit with winning the battle against hair algae. Also within the Articles on the Marine Depot Educational section you will find a couple of other articles that address these issues (http://kb.marinedepot.com/default.aspx?cNode=2H7F0B).
Hopefully those articles will help with ridding your tank of hair algae. Just remember that the algae will not go away overnight. It takes time so just be patient with the tank, don't overfeed, keep up with your maintenance and with the addition of a clean up crew you should be able to rid your tank of the hair algae.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Do you know a way to get rid of hydroids? thanks

Administrator — Mon, 02 Nov 2009 00:12:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Luckily (knocking on wood) this is on pest I have not had to deal with in my reef aquariums to date so I don't have a lot of experience with this. So I went to the Marine Depot Forums (in particular Dr. Ron Shimek's forum) and searched for some help. I found this thread about hydroids that I hope will help you out:
http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic99178-11-1.aspx?Highlight=hydroid
Hopefully that helps with your issue. You may also want to snap a good picture of them and then you can post on the MD forum as well if the above thread doesn't help with your issue.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Hi!I have very strange think in my tankHow I can send you picture may be you can identify and help me!?ThanksLeon

Administrator — Sun, 01 Nov 2009 23:59:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello Leon,
Thanks for your inquiry. Unfortunately through Marine Depot's Knowledge Base we don't have the ability to have pictures sent to us. But you do have two options for getting help with your unidentified item. You can either post a picture on our Forums or you can send an email directly to Marine Depot with the attached picture. You can email Marine Depot at customercare@marinedepot.com.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Do I absolutely need live rock if I have live sand? And I have just started a saltwater tank 3 weeks ago and I alread have brown algae. Is that normal? Should I get a cleaner pakage before I get fish?Thanks.Matt

Administrator — Mon, 26 Oct 2009 23:07:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Yes I would still recommend adding liverock to your aquarium. Liverock will not only provide biological filtration for your aquarium but will also be a more natural surrounding for your fish as well as add micro and macro flora and fauna. While livesand can be beneficial to the aquarium it generally can not add the same diversity as liverock can.
It is very normal to get some brown algae (usually called diatoms) in the beginning of a tank. As long as you keep up with normal maintainence of the tank (water changes for example) the algae should eventually become less. The use of a "cleaner package" including snails and other invertebrates certainly can help with this as well.
You can add some cleaners to the tank before the fish, but I wouldn't suggest adding too many. There will be limited amounts of food for them and if you add too many there simply won't be enough food for them all.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Hi there,I have bought a new house and want to know if i can have a custom tank. It will take time and alot of co ordination i do hope i can have one. Its a wall which id like to convert into a tank length is 12 feet and hieght is 6.5 feet and width2 feet. Do you think i could get a tank custome made? and a rough price of what i can expect.

Administrator — Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:15:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry,
Marine Depot doesn't build custom tanks so unfortunately we can't give you any quotes on building one or let you know if the area you want to put the tank would work. Marine Depot can supply you with all the equipment you need to get the tank running though.
I would suggest contacting an aquarium manufacturer or custom tank builder (if you do a google search you should be able to find a couple, try search words like "custom glass aquarium manufacturer"). That will bring up a few different names for you.
As far the space you have available, if a tank would fit there it would hold about 1100 gallons given the dimensions you listed. The water weight alone would be over 9,000 pounds. I would suggest having a structural engineer check to make sure the area would hold that weight of water. You may want to consider not having the tank so tall though. Cleaning that deep of a tank more than likely would require getting inside the tank. You might consider keeping the height around 3 feet for a little easier time of cleaning.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

About a year ago I had a well established tank(75g FOWLR) that cracked and was forced to put my equipment in the storage. I have been thinking about setting up a new tank and was just wondering if I could use the same live rock/sand that I had from my previous tank. I have been keeping the live rock/sand soaked in salt water in an ice-chest for about 8 months now with the lid closed. The rocks now look completely white. Could this live rock still be "alive"? Would the coralline algae grow back

Administrator — Mon, 19 Oct 2009 22:43:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
If you did not use any heater or pumps to circulate the water and the lid was shut not allowing in any oxygen, more than likely the rock is dead at this point. But that doesn't mean you can't use this rock. What I would suggest at this point is to put the rock into a container (like the ice chest or rubbermaid container), add some saltwater and a powerhead and heater to help circulate the water and heat it. Do a couple of water changes over the next week or two and test the water in the container. If you are getting no readings for ammonia or nitrite you can transfer that rock into your new tank. From there you can then "seed" the dead rock with a few pounds of liverock. Over the next few months the dead rock should start to become more active with life. Eventually the coralline algae should also start to grow back on the rock as well.
As for the sand, give it a good rinsing and it should be fine to reuse as well.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

how do you test rocks to see if theyre safe for freshwater aquariums

Administrator — Wed, 14 Oct 2009 20:01:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
You are trying to find inert rocks to go into your tank, meaning rocks that won't dissolve or release anything into the water. You want to avoid any rocks that are made of calcium. A way to test this is to add a few drops of an acid (vinegar will work) and see what happens. If the acid starts to bubble that means it is dissolving the calcium in the rock and it won't be safe for a freshwater tank (unless you are keeping fish that like a high pH like African Cichlids).
I would suggest going with rocks like shale/slate or other sandstone rocks. These rocks won't dissolve in the tank and are safe for the tank.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Top 7 Reasons to Join an Aquarium Club by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Fri, 09 Oct 2009 06:07:00 GMT
Abstract:
Have you ever tried explaining the complexity of your reef aquarium system to a non-reefer?

Chances are you were met with a blank stare or caught your friend staring vacantly into space as you described how utterly fascinating it is to behold the circle of life from the comfort of your couch.

Perhaps you've proudly presented your $100 frags of Superman or Sunset Monti to an aquarium layman only to have them respond with what a beautiful “Nemo” you have.

You are not alone.

There are tens of thousands of us out there: men and women with common interests not understood by our peers. If you've tried enlightening and enlisting your current group of friends to no avail, what's next?

Find some new friends, of course!

Aquarium clubs are a great place to connect with a fun group of people who will really get you.

Before I dive into my Top 7 Reasons to Join an Aquarium Club, you might be wondering how in the heck to even find a club to join. It's easier than you think, Young Skywalker.

Club directories in aquarium magazines. Pick up a copy of Aquarium Fish International (AFI) or Freshwater & Marine Aquarium (FAMA) magazine at your local fish store (LFS) or bookstore and skip to the back of the mag. You'll find a handy dandy directory of some of the more popular aquarium clubs throughout the United States and around the world. The first club I joined I discovered in the back of an aquarium hobby magazine.
&nbs

I just bought a uv 40 watt system and with it a rio26 hyper-flow pump !! Will install pump in sump and need to know what flow rate do I need to set pump at to get the best results to kill single cell ?? 200 g tank with 30 g sump !!

Administrator — Tue, 06 Oct 2009 10:27:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Please take a look at the recommended flowrates found here for the AquaUV sterilizers. For a reef aquarium it is recommended by AquaUV "Reef Tanks -A UV rated in the 30,000-45,000 columns is ideal for the reef environment .UV’s rated at higher kill rates will destroy the planktonic food supply for the reef." Going by their recommendation for flow rate, ideally you want a flowrate between 1930-2900.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

the correct way to install filter on a penguin bio-wheel 350

Administrator — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 08:48:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
For the Penguin filters, you will want to have the water first flow through the blue filter pad and then out through the black slotted side. So the black slotted side will be closer to the bio-wheel than the blue padded side. You can see how to install them by clicking here as well.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

I have a flat worm in my reef tank. How do I get rid of it?

Administrator — Mon, 05 Oct 2009 08:42:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
The first thing you will want to do is make sure you correctly identify the critter in your tank. Most flatworms are not a problem in the reef aquarium. Most people find the red flatworms that are very small in size (a few mm in length) can spread very quickly in their tank, but other types of flatworms usually aren't an issue.
I would suggest visiting our online forums and describe what you are seeing in your tank (and if possible post a picture of it). Once we have established what the critter is we can better let you know if it is something that is harmful to the tank and needs to be dealt with or if it is perfectly harmless and should be left alone.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Which sand is the best for salt water fish tank?

Administrator — Sat, 03 Oct 2009 04:23:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
It will depend on what type of fish you are going to have in the tank. If you are planning on having fish that dig or borrow in the sand then you want to go with a smaller grain sized sand. Otherwise any aragonite based sand will work great for saltwater tanks. I personally like the Caribsea line of sands in particular the Aragamax Oolitic sand. But all of their sands are very good. They also carry livesand if you wanted to help seed your tank with live beneficial bacteria. You don't need to use 100% livesand, you can mix in a bag or two of livesand with the dry sand.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Aquatic Feast by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Fri, 02 Oct 2009 03:51:00 GMT
Abstract:
Life on a coral reef is like a Vegas buffet. Fish in the wild have a near infinite selection of delicacies to enjoy. From various algae, ciliates and rotifers to mysids, amphipods and copepods, the bio diversity is nearly endless.

Unfortunately, our aquarium inhabitants do not have this same luxury. Our fish and corals are limited to the menu we supply. Often times this consists of only pellets or flakes. While both can be valuable parts of a captive diet, offering a diversified menu will help your wet pets thrive.

Some aquarists may ask, “What's the point? My fish are doing fine.”

That is precisely the point. They are only doing fine.

Why not strive for great, awesome or even fantastic? When water quality and environmental needs are met, nutrition is often cited as the missing link between having great fish and having great fish that spawn.

For truly healthy fish, you need to supply a combination of amino acids (proteins), carbohydrates, lipids (fats & oils), vitamins and minerals. By varying their diet, you can ensure that all the nutritional needs of your fish are being met.

The next step is to research the individual nutritional requirements of each of your fish. Are your fish carnivores, herbivores or omnivores? Pay close attention to the size of your animals. Pellets and flakes are not adequate for lion fish; freeze-dried krill is too large for the small mouth of a Mandarin Gobi. The research you conduct will dictate which types of food to purchase.

Whenever possible, fresh, whole foods are your best choice. While they usually cost a little more, fresh and other high-quality diets are a better value. These foods have greater

What is nano control system?How it works?Uses of nano control system?Advantages and disadvantages of this.

Administrator — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 01:48:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Nano tanks have become very popular over the years and with this desire for "nano" sized products has also increased. Skimmers for smaller tanks are being produced by numerous companies, smaller sized light fixtures are now available and smaller sized chillers to help maintain safe temperatures have also become popular.
If you aren't familiar with Nano tank, have a look at this article about them. It goes into some great detail the set up and maintaining aspect of these tanks:
http://kb.marinedepot.com/article.aspx?id=10503&cNode=4O3V2M
Many times people want to automate their tank as much as possible and for larger aquariums there are controllers that can take care of almost anything you can think of including monitoring and controlling the pH, ORP, salinity, temperature, lights, etc... But many times for nano tanks you don't need a controller that has so many different options. Neptune Systems and Digital Aquatics came out with "Nano" sized controllers. Neptune Systems developed their AquaController Jr. and Digital Aquatics came out with their "Lite" controllers. These controllers allow people with all sized tanks (not just nano tanks) to control a couple of the major items for their tank including pH, temperature and their lights.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

How much sand should a 55 gallon salt water tank should be used?

Administrator — Tue, 29 Sep 2009 01:27:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
The amount of sand will depend on how deep of a sandbed you want in your tank. I have listed below some recommend amounts of sand depending on the depth desired (assuming a 48x13 footprint):
1" deep sand bed will require approximately 35lbs of sand
2" deep sand bed will require approximately 65-70lbs of sand
3" deep sand bed will require approximately 95-100lbs of sand
4" deep sand bed will require approximately 130-135lbs of sand
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Hi, I have a 36"x20"x21" FOWLR tank and want to upgrade to a reef with soft corals. After looking at your Metal Halide lighting choices, I am considering the Current Usa Outer Orbit 36" fixture. Is this the best MH light you will recommend? How heavy is it and does it carry a UV shield? Also, do you carry all replacement parts, bulbs etc.?

Administrator — Mon, 28 Sep 2009 21:52:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
The CurrentUSA Outer Orbit fixtures are a great option and I have used them myself in the past. While I am not sure of the actual weight (it will depend on if it is the 150 watt or 250 watt version) they are not extremely heavy by any means. All fixtures that have double ended bulbs will come with the UV sheild. Marine Depot will carry all the replacement parts needed for the fixture. Some of the items are instock items (like the bulbs for example) but some items would need to be special ordered (like the LED plug if that went bad).
But I do want to forwarn you. CurrentUSA is going in a different direction with their lights and the Outer Orbits have been discontinued. Once they are sold out you won't be able to find them any longer. It was sad to hear this because they were quality fixtures at very good prices.
You mentioned changing the tank over to having soft corals. The nice thing about soft corals is they don't require as much light as say clams, anemones or SPS corals. You wouldn't have to use metal halide lighting if you didn't want to. A nice T5 fixture would work perfectly for your needs. The advantage of the T5's over metal halide include lower electrical costs and less heat issues.
I have linked a few options below for you, both metal halide and T5. If you have any quesitions on these fixtures please let us know:
T5:
AquaticLife T5 Fixture (4 bulbs included)
CurrentUSA NovaExtreme (6 bulbs included)
http://kb.marinedepot.com/default.aspx?cNode=2H7F0B
There is lots of great information in those articles and hopefully that may be all the knowledge you need to help battle your problems. But I will also touch on a few points as well.
First I would like to talk about your source water. Make sure you are starting with as pure of water as you can. If you aren't using an RO/DI tap water filter I would highly suggest you start. This will help give you pure water that is free of nitrates, phosphates as well as other dissolved organics.
You don't mention your bioload in the tank (fish), so I am not sure if the tank might be overstock leading to problems as well. If you do have a heavy bioload you may want to consider thinning it out some or at the very least reduce feedings to the fish. Even if the bioload is low to moderate reducing your feedings may help as well. Also if you are feeding frozen foods, make sure you aren't putting the frozen food directly in the tank. You will want to rinse/thaw the food before putting it in the tank using a fine mesh fish net. The "juice" frozen food is packed in can be high in both phosphates and nitrates.
If you are using many different additives, you may want to double check their ingredients to make sure they aren't the source of nitrates going into the tank. Most additives for reef tanks are free of nitrates and phosphates, but there are some that could be adding this to the tank.
Is your skimmer pulling out lots of skimmate? It is possible the skimmer itself isn't working properly or is undersized for your tank. If that is not an issue, you could try using an additive cal

What is the best medicine for white spot with out takeing Colar Out Plz Help

Administrator — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 20:37:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
The best medication will depend on the type of tank you have. What would be recommended for a freshwater tank may be different than what is recommended for a saltwater tank and/or saltwater reef tank.
For freshwater aquariums I have found one of the better medications is Kordon's Rid Ich. It will temporarily turn your tanks water a bluish color, but does work very well. It can also be used on saltwater fish, but is not reef safe. There are other medications available and you can find all the different ones Marine Depot carries here.
If you have a saltwater tank you can find lots of great information on treating Ich on our Marine Depot Forums here.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M
Marine Depot Customer Service

how do i keep my fish tank from getting foggy

Administrator — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 20:29:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Without a little more information it is hard recommend exactly what to do. I would need to know if you have a freshwater tank or a saltwater tank. How big is the tank, what type of filter are you using, how many fish do you have, how long has the tank been set up and running and is the cloudiness white or green?
If you can send me an email to keithm@marinedepot.com with answer to the above questions I can give you a more indepth answer.
But in general for freshwater tank, a white cloudiness is caused by either overfeeding/overcrowding of the tank or not enough biological filtration on the tank. Normally by cutting back on feeding and/or reducing the amount of fish in the tank can help with this. There are a few chemicals that can help clear up cloudy water as well, but depending on the cause they may just give temporary relief.
Looking forward to a little more information to better help with your tank.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

I have a reef tank and some kind of anemones have started to grow on the rock. They look nice, but I have been told that I should get rid of them. I bought Aiptasia, but have not started to use. I am trying to find out if I should or should not. Can you shed some light?

Administrator — Sun, 13 Sep 2009 20:22:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
With out a picture it is hard to say if what you have is Aiptasia or Majano anemones, but you should be able to do a search on the web for pictures of both to verify what you have growing is indeed a pest anemone (like aiptasia and majano's are). Once you have correctly identified the anemone you can plan your attack strategy.
For aiptasia there are a few different options. One is using a natural predator. A few of these include peppermint shrimp, berghia nudibranch and copperbanded butterflyfish. Of these three the peppermint shrimp are generally your best option for a few reasons. They aren't overly expensive (usually around $5-10 per), they are generally hardy and will take other foods once the aiptasia are gone. Berghia nudibranch only feed on aiptasia, so once the aiptasia are gone you either need to find a new home (with aiptasia) or buy rocks with aiptasia on them to keep them alive. Copperbanded Butterflyfish tend to be fairly sensitive and also many won't eat prepared foods.
If a natural method either won't work or you want to try a chemical means of getting rid of the anemones, there are a few different types of chemicals you can buy to help kill them. Some require you to inject the anemone with a liquid while others just require you to spray the liquid over the aiptasia. I have used Joe's Juice in the past with great success, but there are many other types out there. Red Sea has a product called Aiptasia-X that has gotten great reviews as well.
If you do indeed have either aiptasia or majano pest anemones,

I have a 48" Coralife 2x150 MH with external ballast. Can I upgrade the ballast for 250s and run 2x250 MHs in the fixture? Do I also need to upgrade the sockets? They are currently DE sockets. Thanks.

Administrator — Sat, 12 Sep 2009 21:01:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
There are a few problems you will encounter with the upgrade you want to try. First is the 250 watt ballasts are larger and would need to be mounted external which would mean extra wiring to connect them. Second is 250 watt DE bulbs are larger than 150 watt DE bulbs and take different endcaps. So you would not only have to replace the endcaps, but you would have to rewire the endcaps as well. And third since the 250 watt bulbs are longer, they may not fit properly into the reflector.
While I am sure this has been done by people, unless you are very familiar with electrical wiring I would suggest not doing this and staying with the 150 watt DE bulbs. If you need some recommendations on bulb choices feel free to post a new question, visit our online forums to ask for opinions or email Marine Depot directly at customercare@marinedepot.com for help.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service.

Water Movement in Aquariums: An Overview of Powerheads (Updated 9/11/09) by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Thu, 10 Sep 2009 06:13:00 GMT
Abstract:
After lighting, the second most discussed topic in the reef aquarium hobby is how to provide adequate water movement in the tank environment. There is so much information available online and in books that figuring out which powerhead and controller to use may seem overwhelming.

This article should be helpful for reef aquarium hobbyists of all levels of experience, from beginners to experts, and will provide an overview of the most popular types of powerheads currently on the market.

Rather than make specific recommendations, we'll discuss the pros & cons of each product line, compare specifications and list powerhead alternatives that also create water movement within the aquarium.

But before we get our feet wet, you may want a refresher on why water movement is so important. The New Marine Aquarium author Mike Paletta explains why Producing Water Movement is so essential in a reef tank. His article discusses different types of water flow and makes some recommendations for reef aquariums. Paletta proposes a minimum flow rate of 5-10 times the tank's volume. While this is certainly acceptable for a fish-only (FO) system, most reefers shoot for 10-20 times the tank's volume (even higher in some cases).

Whether you opt for 10x the tank's volume or 50x, just be sure the flow rate you choose does not harm your aquarium inhabitants.

WHAT IS A POWERHEAD?

A

I noticed, that almost all the pumps out there vibrate like crazy. When you put your ear up to the glass youll hear a loud rrrrr sound, complimented by vibration even in those special $300 pumps. Im wondering if this disturbs the animals? After all we want our fish to look, and feel their best.

Administrator — Mon, 07 Sep 2009 05:53:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Some pumps certainly can be much noisier than other pumps out there and while I am not sure if there have actual been any studies done on this (a Google Search didn't turn up any results for me) people have been keeping fish alive for numerous years with seemingly no ill effect from these pumps. I personally try to make my aquariums as quiet as possible, usually for my own sanity as the humming of some pumps can be annoying for myself.
You may want to visit our online forums and pose this question to some of the experts on there (Eric Borneman, Anthony Calfo, Dr. Ron Shimek, Kelly Jedlicki, Frank Marini and Steven Pro) and see if any of them have any experience with this.
I apologize I don't have a better answer for you at this time.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

what should your ph and alkalinity should be in a freshwater aquarium??

Administrator — Mon, 07 Sep 2009 05:43:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
There is a range of acceptable pH levels for freshwater tanks depending on the species of fish you are keeping. For example if you are keeping African Cichlids, then you would want to keep a higher pH (around 7.6-7.8 is acceptable). If you are keeping livebearing fish like Guppies, Swordtails and Platies a pH between 7.0-7.4 would be acceptable. If you are keeping fish like Tetra's a lower pH around 6.6-7.0 would be fine. If you are just keeping a mixture of fish I would suggest trying to keep a pH between 6.8-7.2.
For you alkalinity, different tests give different reading values so it is hard to give exact numbers. I would suggest keeping the alkalinity on the higher side to help prevent pH swings (lower levels allow the pH to change quickly).
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Emergency Preparedness by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Fri, 04 Sep 2009 02:01:00 GMT
Abstract:
I was watching the Weather Channel recently and they announced that hurricane season was now underway. The pundit warned of the potential problems that arise from these treacherous storms.

The one that stuck out to me? The loss of power.

Most people would regard a couple of hours without electricity as a minor inconvenience. Missing your favorite television program or having the milk spoil might be aggravating, but hey, life goes on.

To the aquarium hobbyist, a couple of hours without electricity can be devastating. Life may, in fact, not go on for some of our tank’s inhabitants. This got me thinking: what other ways might Mother Nature wreck havoc upon our tanks to create a true aquarium emergency?

There are plenty, actually.

Earthquakes, tornadoes, thunderstorms and, of course, the aforementioned hurricanes can each potentially leave us high and dry. When you factor in system-related mishaps like disease, leaks/floods and equipment failure, it seems the only thing a responsible aquarist can do to manage these situations is to be prepared before the inevitable takes place.

DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME

Out of all the potential problems that can occur in our aquariums, many can be avoided.

First, use only high quality well-built equipment, starting with the aquarium itself. Buy from reputable tank builders who craft their aquariums with the proper glass/acrylic thickness. For marine and reef aquariums, verify that the adhesives are saltwater-safe.

i have a oceanic protein skimmer in my wet dry sump. it is putting alot of bubles in my main tank how do i stop this

Administrator — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 05:49:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Unfortunately I am not too familiar with the oceanic skimmers, but I can still try to help out some. First if your sump has baffles and if the skimmer can fit before the baffles (so the skimmer is before the baffles and the return pump is after the baffles) that can allow the baffles to help remove the bubbles.
If that is not possible, then you will need to make some type of bubble trap to prevent the bubbles from being pulling into your return pump and getting into the main tank. You can do this by using either a sponge or filter sock on the outlet of the skimmer. This should help to allow the bubbles to rise to the surface and pop.
If you need some ideas on how to make a bubble trap, feel free to contact me at keithm@marinedepot.com and provide a picture or two of your sump/skimmer set up. You can also post on our online forums with a few pictures as well to get other peoples opinions on what to do.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

im new whith saltwater fish i have a thank full of water whit salt and i dont know how to read the floating salt metter. i put a lot of salt and still lock low is about 1.050 i put more salt and its going down instead of up to the green line i have the tank for three monts already it was fine then it time to put more water whith salt and the metter is going down instead of up to the green line. is it broken or what help please papy nimo and mami nimo are not happy help before they die.

Administrator — Tue, 01 Sep 2009 05:43:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry. The floating glass hydrometers read the density of the water. The more salt in the water, the higher it floats and the less salt the lower it floats. For a saltwater aquarium you want to keep the level around 1.020-1.025. You are way above this level and need to lower it. You can do this by adding more freshwater to the tank while taking out some of the saltwater. You don't want a drastic change, so make sure you are only taking out a small percentage of the tank and replacing it with freshwater.
You may want to invest in a swing arm hydrometer or a refractometer as an easier way to read the salt levels. The floating glass hydrometers, while fairly accurate, can be harder to read and ideally need very still water (no movement).
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Reef Aquarium Maintenance Checklist by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Administrator — Sat, 29 Aug 2009 00:36:00 GMT
Abstract:
Every reef aquarist knows the importance of regular tank maintenance. This is especially true for those of us who have, for one reason or another, neglected our aquarium for a few months—sometimes even less time—and have seen firsthand how quickly things get unbalanced.

Most of you know what I'm talking about: out of control algae growth on the glass to the point where you can't even see inside your aquarium. Hair algae or red slime algae growing on the rocks. Water parameters out of whack. The list goes on.

This article contains aquarium maintenance checklists to use daily, weekly, monthly and beyond and will help you establish a schedule to make your life as a reefkeeper a little easier. Along the way, we'll introduce some products that we ourselves have used and recommend for aquarium upkeep.

Aquarium Maintenance Checklist: Daily
Visual Inspection of Aquarium Equipment
Spend a few minutes each day verifying that your pumps are working properly, that your heater and chiller are fully functional and that your other equipment—calcium reactor, ozonizer—are operating as intended. Perhaps you're already checking on your lights but it's a good idea to check on all your hardware, like an auto top-off, once each day. I find the best time to perform the visual inspection of equipment is while I'm feeding my fish and corals.

Visual Inspection of Aquarium Livestock
Look closely at each of your fish for signs of disease (like ich) and aggressive wounds (from another inhabitant that may need to be removed). Scan

i know the recommend time to change a metal halide light is 9-12 months depending on how many hours a day i use it but what is manufactures recommend total hours to change it? thanks

Administrator — Sat, 29 Aug 2009 00:33:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Here is an article about changing out bulbs that might help some:
http://kb.marinedepot.com/article.aspx?id=10857&cNode=4O3V2M
As far as the manufacturers recommendations, they will vary from company to company due to different factors (such as type of ballast used). If there is a particular bulb you want to find out about recommended changing time I would suggest contacting them directly letting them know which bulb you are inquirying about, the length of time the bulb is run per day as well as the type of ballast you are using. This will all come into play in the recommended time to change out the bulb.
I would also like to copy and past a few paragraphs from the above linked article as I think they are fairly important when determining how often to change out your bulbs:
Some of you may be wary of manufacturer recommendations and might perceive them as a way for these companies to get you to buy more product than you actually need to. Can the average aquarium hobbyist find out if these recommendations are accurate?

The answer is yes.

There are two relatively common and affordable tools that hobbyists can you use to check the validity of these recommendations. The first is a LUX meter, aka the less expensive option, and the PAR meter (more expensive, although there are definitely some good ones available at reasonable prices, like Apogee's PAR meters).

According to Anthony Calfo's Book of Coral Propagation Volume 1, a LUX meter will "essentially just measure the intensity of available light." It will not, however, measure whether that light is useful to photosynthetic organisms. For that Mr. Calfo recommends using a PAR

What causes red slime algae?

Administrator — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 22:21:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
There are usually three main causes of red slime algae and it can be one or a combination of these factors. First is lack of flow (red slime generally does not grow well in areas of high flow), high nutrient levels (in particular nitrates and phosphates) and lastly old lights over a tank (the bulbs tend to shift in spectrum causing problematic algae growths).
If you go to the Marine Depot Forums and type "Red Slime" into the search feature you will be able to find lots of different threads about Red Slime including causes and solutions.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M
Marine Depot Customer Service

For a JBJ 24 nano cube to be set up as a FOWLR tank: Is the provided pump adequate for water circulation? What additives do you recommend for the live rock? What synthetic salt do you recommend? Additives for boosting and buffering PH? Substrate type & depth? Hours per day of light for the live rock (72Watts 50/50 lamps)? Is it possible to attach a protein skimmer to this tank? Will a cleaner crew be beneficial for this type of set-up? Can you recommend a good source for live rock?

Administrator — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 22:15:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Is the provided pump adequate for water circulation? Yes it will provide adequate water circulation, but I feel it wouldn't hurt to add a secondary pump for a little extra water movement for the fish. Something like a Korallia 1 pump would give that little extra water movement and is an inexpensive add on.
What additives do you recommend for the live rock? For a fish only system I have found simply doing water changes every 2-4 weeks will provide the needed nutrients for the liverock to survive. If you did want to add something though, I would suggest something like the Kent Marine Essential Elements or Seachem's Reef Pack. Since the tank is not a reef tank, you shouldn't have to dose at the recommendated dosing rate. I would suggest dosing about half of the recommended dosing rate.
What synthetic salt do you recommend? There are lots of different brands of salt available on the market today. Most are very high quality salts and any of the ones Marine Depot carries are good quality salts. The ones I would recommend looking at in particular are the Red Sea Coral Pro, Seachem Reef Salt, Brightwell Aquatics Salt, D+D's Salt&nbs

Im new at saltwater tanks.. setting up a 92gal corner unit saturday. making this a reef tank - eventually. want to choose good lighting for prior planning. What do you suggest? I know that I want the lunarlights - have that on the 36 gal marine tank and love it. Not sure of all the inhabitants that I want to put in - all new names and TONS to learn. want to do it right the first time. any suggestions?

Administrator — Mon, 24 Aug 2009 21:48:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
I apologize for the delay in replying. Lighting a corner tank is not an easy task. I have a 54 corner tank and getting full coverage over the tank is not an easy task. For my tank I went with a single 250 watt Double Ended pendant by Sunlight Supply, it is their LumenMax 3. It does work well, but doesn't provide any supplemental lighting (like T5's for dawn to dusk effect) nor does it have any lunar lights.
For your tank I believe you can put a 36" fixture over the tank. You didn't mention what types of corals you are looking to keep, so I am going to assume you want to keep a wide variety including SPS corals as well as maybe some clams. For these I would suggest going with a metal halide fixture.
One fixture that I would recommend is the Sunlight Supply Maristar fixture. While it doesn't come with Lunar Lights, there are many lunar lights you can add to the tank to supplement this. Also the unit doesn't come with the ballast or bulbs, so you will need to choose those as well.
Another possible unit is the Current-USA SunPod fixture. These will have the

Q10941 - replyWhat about during the winter, Do I have to worry about anything if its by the window?

Administrator — Sun, 23 Aug 2009 01:54:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your reply,
Unless the window is very drafty you shouldn't have any issues with cold from the window. You may just want to make sure you go slightly larger on the wattage of your heater just in case.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

I am converting a FW tank to a SW tank. I purchased the live sand, salt, bio-wheel filter. I mixed the salt (have a well water system) and put in the sand. After 12 hours water is very cloudy and almost yellowish. what can I do to clear the water? What else do I need for my new reef tank? Still have not purchased lights yet. 31 gallon tank

Administrator — Wed, 19 Aug 2009 04:25:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
First I would like to suggest an article that lists items needed for a reef tank (http://www.cpraquatic.com/pdf/csselection.pdf). You can use this almost as a check list to make sure you have the items to get your tank going. For a reef tank I would suggest not using the biowheel filter and instead invest in a good quality protein skimmer as well as liverock. Also you mention having a well water system, depending on the quality of the water coming in you may want to invest in a reverse osmosis (RO) or reverse osmosis/deionization (RO/DI) water fitler to help purify your water before it goes into your tank (for both mixing saltwater as well as topping off from evaporation).
The sand is more than likely causing the cloudiness and it will eventually go away, but it can take a few days. If the water is yellow (normally this happens as water becomes aged) you can use carbon to help clear that up, but it may just be from the sand as well.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M
Marine Depot Customer Service

set up 135 gal. water temp is stuck at about 82 83 degrees want to put some clown loachs in there do i need to cool the water down?

Administrator — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 02:20:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Clown Loaches will do fine with the temperature on the warmer side. If the tank is getting above 84-85 then it may be a little more concerning for them though. Just make sure you aren't getting large temperature swings as that can cause stress on the fish.
Here is an article on keeping your tank cool that might help out some as well.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

I have a 75 gallon salt water reef tank set up with a deep sand bed. The tank about 4 months old. I would like to move the sand bed to a separte tank/sump with an area for a refugium, skimmer and pump. Is the tank old enough that disturbing the sand bed will be a problem? What can I do to reduce the shock to the system?

Administrator — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 02:06:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry,
A sand bed at 4 month old probably isn't going to be a fully functioning sandbed but it will still be an active sand bed (especially if you used livesand). If you aren't in a hurry to move all the sand out and want to move it in a way that will impact the tank the least, I would suggest moving it over a few weeks period of time. This way you are only disturbing smaller areas at a time and it shouldn't cause any major issues. I would also suggest doing some water changes (more frequent than normal) to help just in case any levels like nitrate spike within the tank.
You may also want to post a question in the Marine Depot Forums (either in Dr. Ron Shimek's forum or Steven Pro's forum) as they are very knowledgable on DSB's and may have a few other tricks and tips.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Mystery Crab DeathsI have been unable to keep Red leg, Blue leg or Scarlet Crabs alive in this system. First set of crabs lived for about 3-4 weeks all of them died within 2-3 days of each other, found most of them dead in the shell, although some crawled out and were a few inches away from the shell. Second set died after about 2-3 weeks, same symptoms. The same was true for the third set of crabs. The forth set only lasted 1-2 weeks, these were introduced after running Seachem phosguar

Administrator — Mon, 17 Aug 2009 01:59:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Hermit crabs, snails and other invertebrates can be sensitive to a couple of different parameters, so I will go over a couple of different items that may be causing the issue. First is the actual acclimation of them to the aquarium water. They can be sensitive to salinity changes, so you will want to make sure that in addition to acclimating them for temperatures (floating the bag for around 20-30 minutes) that you also acclimate them to the salinity of your tanks water compared to the water in the bag they are in. I personally like to drip acclimate my livestock. After floating them in the tank I will dump them into a bucket and start a drip line from the tank into the bucket (if you don't have a drip acclimator, Marine Depot sells one here or hang on acclimation tanks here). Test the water in the bucket and depending on the species, after 20-30 minutes as long as the salinity matches you can add them to the tank (don't dump the water back into the tank, just top off your tank with new saltwater).
Second invertebrates can be sensitive to different water parameters. I would suggest double checking to make sure you nitrate levels are low or at zero. High nitrate levels can lead to issues with many invertebrates. Also copper can be deadly to invertebrates. If you are using tap water, it may have some copper in it that is causing issues. I would suggest using RO or RO/DI water for top off as well as mixing up saltwater.
Also make sure your temperature is staying stable (small swings are ok, but large swings can cause more issues), your pH is also staying stable (again small swings are ok, but should be kept

I am a new marine aquarist and I just added live sand and rock to my aquarium.There seems to be a thin oil slick on top of the water. Is this normal during the cycling period and should I be doing water changes while the tank is cycling?

Administrator — Wed, 12 Aug 2009 21:20:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Yes it is fairly normal to see an oily film on the surface of the water. This is due to the hydrophobic properties of dissolved organics in your water. The dissolved organics will form on the surface of the water as they are repelled by the water in the tank. A protein skimmer will use this property to work, by mixing tons of tiny air bubbles with the saltwater, the dissolved orgainics are attraced to the bubbles and then move towards the surface to get away from the water. Eventually they build up enough to overflow into the collection cup of the skimmer. Here is an article on how skimmers work that might help out as well.
If you don't have a protein skimmer, I would suggest adding one to the tank. This will help some with getting rid of dissolved organics in the tank. But many times just adding a skimmer isn't enough. You will need to break the surface tension to help get rid of the oily film. This can be done a couple of ways. One way is to use a powerhead to ripple the surface of the water. This will help break the surface tension. Another way is to use a surface skimmer on the tank. These can hook up to certain filter systems to help break the surface tension. Also some hang on the back protein skimmers like the AquaC Remora's and CRP BakPak's have an add on prefilter that will also skim from the surface to help remove the oil film.
As far as water changes go, yes you can do water changes at any time duri

I just moved my 65 gallon corner tank and would like to know if I can place it by a window. It seems like the window will be the only place I have room for it.

Administrator — Tue, 11 Aug 2009 04:58:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Unfortunately a window is not the ideal spot for a fish tank especially if it gets direct sunlight through the window. The sunlight coming in through the window can cause a few issues including excessive algae growth as well as heat issues. I recall a friends freshwater tank years ago that was near a window and half the tank received direct sunlight from the window. After a month of not cleaning the algae off the glass you could tell exactly where the sun hit and where it didn't. There was a carpet of algae on half of the tanks glass and the other half hardly had any.
If the window has a curtain on it that can be drawn closed during the daytime you should be able to put the tank in that location though. This will help block out the light and help prevent any possible issues.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

I have a 29 gallon tank. I have been told I need 2 powerheads in this size of tank. My question is, is it necesary to have 2 powerheads or can I do the job with just one? I am starting out with just saltwater fish and eventually goig to move on to reef and corals. I currently have on rock weighing close to 8 lbs. Should I pick up more rocks or is this a good start to my endeavor?Thank You,Jon Hacker

Administrator — Mon, 27 Jul 2009 06:52:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello Jon,
Thank you for your inquiry. It will depend on the size of the powerhead(s) you go with. You don't want to put one large powerhead in the tank as it can cause too much force out of a single area, but with the right sized powerhead you certainly could go with a single one. Many times people will go with multiple powerheads to help provide flow throughout the tank and help avoid dead spots where food and other detritus can build up. I would suggest looking at the Hydor Korallia pumps as a good alternative for your tank. They help provide gentle water movement, but at high flow rates. If you just want a single pump, I would suggest going with either the model 3 or model 4. If you go with a couple of powerheads I would suggest getting two of the model 2's or model 3's or even one of each.
Most people recommend having around 1-2 pounds of liverock per gallon of water. For your tank I would try to get around 25-30 pounds to start with and see how the tank looks. You can always add a little more later on or even take a little out if it seems like too much.
Here are a couple of articles that might help out some as you get your tank going:
Items needed for a marine tank
Items needed for a reef tank
Setting up a marine tank
Hopefully that helps out some. Please let me know if there is anything else we can do for you.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

What does ORP stand for and just how important is it to monitor?

Administrator — Fri, 24 Jul 2009 01:58:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
ORP stands for Oxidation Reduction Potential. Most people will monitor this level if they are using an ozonizer on their aquarium.
In our Glossary of terms you can find it listed as follows:
Oxidation-Reduction Potential (ORP)- Measured in millivolts (mV), it is the measure of the ability of the water to break down waste products in the tank. For aquariums the recommended level be between 350-390 mV.
If you are interested in running ozone on your tank you can find an article about it here.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

I have a metal halide bulb that needs replacing. on the bulb is 250w CW f-103342 made in EC, what is the equivalent of this bulb, which you sell?

Administrator — Mon, 20 Jul 2009 23:07:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Unfortunately the only information that you gave that I can give you a 100% answer is that your bulb is a 250 watt bulb and that the made in EC means it was made in the European Union. I am not sure what the CW or f-103342 stand for.
Is the bulb a single ended bulb (mogul based) like the one shown here:
Ushio 250 watt SE bulb
Or is it double ended like the bulbs shown here:
Ushio 250 watt DE bulb
If the bulb is a double ended bulb you can use and of the 250 watt double ended bulbs Marine Depot carries in your fixture. If the bulb is a single ended bulb you will want to find out what type of ballast you have as some bulbs require special ballasts to light them. If you have an electronic ballast then you can use any of the single ended bulbs, but if it is a magnetic ballast (generally larger and heavier) then you will want to find out exactly what type of ballast you have to make sure your bulb choice works.
Also within the different wattages you will see different Kelvin rated bulbs (generally from around 6500K up to 22000K bulbs). The lower K rate will generally be a yellow color, mid rated bulbs (~10,000K-13,000K) will be a white color and as you go above 14,000K they will be more blue. Here is a great article with some pictures of some different bulbs that might help when choosing a bulb:

To many reef keepers biodiversity is the key to a beautiful tank and a healthy ecosystem. Some of my favorite moments enjoying my aquariums are discovering a new hitchhiker that has come in on my live rock. Many organisms such as sponges, feather dusters, snails, and the occasional coral can help beatify a tank and are often proof of a thriving mini ecosystem. But some stowaways cause more trouble than they are worth. Some can be dangerous to your fish, while others can harm you, and if released into the wild some can harm the environment. This article will focus on the identification and removal of some of nastiest and hardest to remove of these organisms. Aiptasias/Majano Anemones
Description: Aiptasias or glass anemones are small light brown, almost clear, anemones usually less than an inch long. However, they can grow to 3-4 inches long. They possess thin long pointed tentacles. Majanos on the other hand can take many disguises. They too are small ½ - ¾ inch long, and come in many different colors from green to brown. Its tentacles are short and rounded. Often these anemones are confused with button polyps, zooanthids, or other small anemones.