Top 7 Live Rock Hitchhikers by Robert Farnsworth, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Fri, 10 Feb 2012 06:48:00 GMT

Abstract:

If you have ever set up, maintained or even researched marine aquaria, I am sure you are aware of live rock and its role in this hobby. Live rock is generally a piece of reef rock (ancient dead corals) that is pulled directly from wild reefs or culture facilities. It is then boxed and immediately shipped to your local fish store or a distributor. Live rock provides structure for aquascaping and biological filtration in your aquarium.

More often than not, live rock rock is still moist from being shipped right after it is collected. The reason for such quick shipment is to avoid the die off of beneficial bacteria and organisms that use the live rock as a host. This allows for a wide variety of beneficial bacteria to be introduced into a new aquarium for biological filtration processes. Along with introducing bacteria, oftentimes small animals and other organisms survive the trek. In the aquarium hobby, they are most commonly referred to as "live rock hitchhikers."

The list that follows includes some common and surprising hitchhikers hobbyists have discovered on their aquarium live rock. Our goal is to help you identify these organisms and teach you how they can affect your aquarium, for better or worse. We'll also include some tips on how to get rid of them if they pose a threat.

1. ANEMONES

How to Setup a Media Reactor by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Tue, 07 Feb 2012 04:55:00 GMT

Abstract:

To maintain pristine water quality in our aquariums, hobbyists often utilize carbon, ferric oxide media (like ROWAphos and Phosban) and/or other filter media to absorb dissolved organics and other chemicals from the water.

There are many ways you can add media to your aquarium. One of the best ways is by using a fluidized bed filter (FBF). Fluidized bed filters are commonly referred to as phosphate or media reactors.

Perhaps you've been wondering what a media reactor is and how they work. This article is for you.

They say a picture is worth a thousand words. To save you some serious reading, I've included an up-close photograph of Two Little Fishies Phosban Reactor 150.

Aquarium Plumbing Guide & Glossary By Robert Farnsworth, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 07:50:00 GMT

Abstract:

AQUARIUM PLUMBING GLOSSARY

FPT — Female pipe thread

MPT — Male pipe thread

Slip — Smooth surface for gluing PVC pipe

Hose Barb — Barbed fitting designed to make a water tight connection with flexible vinyl tubing

PVC Pipe — Polyvinyl chloride, a rigid plastic piping used for many plumbing applications

Flexible PVC — Plastic pipe similar to PVC with the added benefit of flexibility

Vinyl Tubing — Flexible tubing made of vinyl

Teflon Tape — Tape made out of Teflon used for wrapping around threaded plumbing connections to ensure a watertight seal

I.D. — Inner diameter

O.D. — Outside diameter

U-Tube — A U-shaped rigid pipe used to secure vinyl tubing to your aquarium

Flow Accelerator — A special type of nozzle used to increase water flow

Impeller — A wheel of blades—usually attached to a magnet—inside a water pump used to move water through the pump as it spins

AQUARIUM PLUMBING GUIDE

Bulkheads
Bulkhead fittings allow you to make a sealed connection into a container such as an aquarium or sump. The fittings are designed to be installed through your container

I recently started adding Kent Purple Up to my salt tank. The next day I showed a high nitrate test result. The day prior to adding this product my tank (fowlr set up for 5 yrs) showed zero nitrates. Is this a false positive due to additive?

Administrator — Mon, 06 Feb 2012 03:13:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

I have never heard from anyone having problems with increased nitrate levels when using Kent Marine Purple Up. This is a product that is meant to help promote calcerous algae like coralline algae by increase levels of calcium, magnesium, strontium, carbonates and add trace minerals. It is possible that the trace minerals may have some type of nitrogen based additive to help promote the growth.

I would suggest contacting Kent Marine directly to see if there are any items in Purple Up that could cause this. It may have been a false positive test result or something may have actually increased the nitrate levels in the tank and it is a true reading. You can contact Kent Marine directly through their website:

http://www.kentmarine.com/about/contact-us.php

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

I have a 55 gallon saltwater tank with 5 fish that Ive had for at least 4 years. Over the last year hundreds of orange worms have taken over the sand bed. While I know they are probably beneficial to the ecosystem my family is totally disgusted with them as well as visitors who ask me what they are! They cling to the plants when I remove them to clean the tank. Id like to get rid of them as they make the sand bed look very unattractive since you can see them between the sand and the glass at the

Administrator — Tue, 31 Jan 2012 02:26:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

It sounds like what you have are either bristleworms or spaghetti worms. As you mentioned they are benefical to your tank. They are part of your clean up crew (CUC) and help feed upon excess food that makes its way to the bottom of the tank.

If you have an overabudance of them, that is usually a sign that you are overfeeding the tank. One way to help reduce their population is to simpliy reduce the amount of food you are feeding. With less food available their population will reduce in size, but this will take a while to occur.

Other ways to help reduce their numbers include natural predation of the worms or the use of traps to get them out of the tank. Without knowing what type of fish you currently have in the tank it can be hard to recommend a natural predator, but I would suggest looking at certain wrasses or dottybacks for possible fish options or an arrow crab as another option.

You may also want to check out this article on pests that might help as well:

http://kb.marinedepot.com/article.aspx?id=10984

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

What is the Best Diet to Feed My Coral? by Grant Lubbock, MarineDepot.com Customer Care

Dot Yuson — Tue, 24 Jan 2012 01:24:00 GMT

Abstract:

As hobbyists have gained knowledge of how to keep toxins corals are sensitive to—primarily nitrates and phosphates—under control and balancing and stabilizing essential trace elements, corals are now successfully kept in biotopes all around the world.

As coral lighting requirements became more understood and higher-intensity systems developed, even more corals are now being kept successfully in closed saltwater systems. Understanding and recreating the varied water currents that corals require have helped fuel this mammoth success even further.

The final threshold that has made the saltwater aquarium hobby so successful is our ability to supply the specific food requirements for individual corals.

Corals have three methods of ingestion of particulate food matter and organic waste.

The Fundamentals of Live Rock in Aquascaping by Mike Paletta

Dot Yuson — Thu, 12 Jan 2012 02:41:00 GMT

Abstract:

Live rock is not only crucial for biological filtration, but when done properly, it provides a natural environment for aquarium inhabitants. It can provide natural hiding places to make the fish feel secure as well as providing a natural base upon which the corals and other invertebrates may be placed. Unfortunately during the planning of the tank, aquascaping and the use of live rock often take second place to the overall construction of the tank. It is not that it is neglected; it is more that it is taken for granted. As a result, little effort and planning is put into how to aquascape the tank to achieve maximum beauty and function. This is unfortunate in that despite how much money we put into corals, fish or equipment if we do not aquascape it properly, it will not look as beautiful as it could. Only a short while ago, a reefkeeper's main concern was simply to keep his soft corals alive and not have the tank become overgrown with algae. As things progressed, controlling algae has become easier. It is now even possible to not only keep small polyped stony corals alive, but to have them thrive and grow and even reproduce.

Coupling the success with these corals with the technological improvements now being made, it is time to start addressing one

of the neglected aspects of setting up a reef tank: namely aquascaping. Properly done, good aquascaping should pro

hi please could you advise me ,i have a 125 juwel fish tank ,is it better to have the flow of filter on full all the time .thanks lynda

Administrator — Mon, 09 Jan 2012 02:53:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your message.

Unfortunately I'm not familiar with the Juwel systems, but in most cases running your filtration systems at full speed is usually best unless the flow is causing issues with the fish.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

Top 10 Reasons to Frag Your Corals by Keith MacNeil

Dot Yuson — Fri, 30 Dec 2011 00:52:00 GMT

Abstract:

1. To help support your hobby spending.

This hobby can take quite a bit of money even for a nano tank. By propagating corals and selling or trading them to other hobbyists or pet stores you can help offset some of the money you spend on your tank.

2. To help save the reefs from over collection.

While this topic is somewhat controversial (some say the hobby does very little damage compared to other outside factors such as farming fertilizer runoff, dredging, tourism, etc… while others say the hobby is responsible for lots of damage) it is nice to be able to minimize any damage to reefs in the wild.

3. For healthier specimens.

Tank raised/propagated corals generally are much hardier than any coral taken from the wild. These propagated corals have already adapted to artificial light and generally do not have to deal with shipping stress (if dealing with local hobbyists).

4. Help sustain the hobby for years to come.

Some studies have shown many reefs may die over the next 50 years due to global warming, the rising temperatures of the oceans and ocean acidification. If these reports hold true the corals we are propagating and keeping in our tanks may someday be the only corals left. By propagating corals we will be able sustain the hobby along with the possiblity one day reseeding the oceans with corals.

5. For education purposes.

There have been numerous schools across the country that have started to include coral propagation in their science classes. This is a great way to help kids and adults learn and become educated about corals, aquariums and even the plight of coral reefs in our oceans.

6. For the health of your reef tanks

Proper Acclimation Procedures by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Tue, 13 Dec 2011 01:47:00 GMT
Abstract:

Whether you have livestock shipped directly to your door or purchase your pets from the local fish store, it is important that any new life you intend to put into your aquarium be properly acclimated first.

Proper acclimation actually helps reduce the stress animals face after relocation. In fact, the acclimation procedure itself is fairly simple—although it does vary slightly for different species of animals. Sensitive fish, corals and invertebrates, such as snails, crabs and shrimp take longer to acclimate than hardier fish, corals and inverts.

In this article, we will cover some of the ways to properly acclimate animals to an aquarium and provide you with some tips and product recommendations along the way.

Checklist of Items Needed for Proper Acclimation
Quarantine Tank (recommended)
Gloves
Fish Net
Airline tubing or Pisces Pro Acclimator (for drip method)
Buckets and
I'm not familiar with "blue sphear filter", so I'm not sure if that is a submersible or external return pump. It sounds like possibly something got caught in the pump that caused it to stop working, or somehow it overheated and shut down (some pumps have thermal protection on them and will shut down if they overheat).
I would suggest taking the pump out and giving it a good cleaning. It is possible something is caught inside of it that could be causing it to not work properly.
The cloud you saw was probably the built up debris/organic slime that was in the tubing, normally this will clear up on its own or the filter system will remove it.
I'm not sure on your last question what you are referring to. Is the sump (where the return pump is located) water level dropping too much? Have a look at this article on setting up a sump that hopefully will help some with that question:
http://kb.marinedepot.com/article.aspx?id=11033&cNode=4O3V2M
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service
1-800-566-FISH

How to Set-up an Auto Top-Off System By Daniel Somboonsiri, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Fri, 25 Nov 2011 04:56:00 GMT
Abstract:

For most aquarium hobbyists, the aquarium is a source of relaxation: a way to escape and unwind after a hard day. We look to the subtle sounds, the gentle sway of current and the graceful movement of fish to bring the beauty of underwater worlds into our homes and offices. Some maintenance will always be involved with keeping aquaria, but the less we have to work to enjoy our aquariums the better.

Enter automation.

Maintaining an aquarium is beginning to look a lot more Jetsons than Flintstones. Today, aquariums can be almost fully automated, even monitored and maintained by mobile phone. While we're not going to go into every possible automated device today, I would like to cover one that can make your aquarist life a whole lot easier while creating a healthier environment for your fishy friends.

I don't know about you but I hate lugging buckets and jugs of water around.

No matter how hard I try, water spills on the carpet, the dog drinks from the bucket when my back's turned and my wife is inevitably upset. This is where an auto top-off comes in: a top-off system will sense when your water level drops and replenish the water automatically. No more constantly lugging water or worrying about someone coming by to fill up the tank while you're away.

Personal sanity and carpet cleaning bills aside, an automatic top-off system will make for a healthy tank. Saltwater systems will maintain a constant salinity. Protein skimmers will function mor

I have a 60 gallon cube saltwater tank. Right now, I have fish and live rock. I hope to introduce corals later on but for now I have fish some inverts so far. I have a T5 HO light with lunar LED. How long should I run the lights? My actinics can switch on separately as well as the lunar lights so I can run a dawn, daylight, dusk and lunar schedule, if I had the right timer. Thank you.

Administrator — Thu, 17 Nov 2011 01:29:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
If you have no corals or inverts that require light to survive, you can run your lights for as long as you wish. But in general the longer the lights are on the quicker algae can grow. If your water quality is very good (ie no nitrates or phosphates) and you have a decent clean up crew to feed upon any algae growth I would recommend running your lights for up to 6-8 hours per day for a fish only system. I like to use a "dawn to dusk" type lighting, which would run something like this:
8:00am actinic lights come on
9:00am white daylights come on (actincs stay on)
3:00 pm white daylights go off (actinics still on)
4:00 pm actinics lights go off
LED lunar lights can be run 24/7 without any problem, or some people will only run them when the other lights have gone off (so they would shut off at 8:00am and go back on at 4:00pm with the above lighting schedule).
The above lighting schedule would be good if you were watching the tank during the daytime. If you tend to only see the tank during the evening hours, you may not want the light to come on until 2 in the afternoon and shut down around 10 at night.
Once you have corals in the tank I would suggest running the lights for 8-10 hours per day. You can use the same type of schedule as above, just push out the times so the length the lights are on is extended.
If you need some suggestions on timers or controllers to help with this, feel free to send us an email at customercare@marinedepot.com for assistance or call us at 1-800-566-FISH.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Most algae solutions you talk about are for reef/marine aquariums. What about fresh water algae? My 150-gal frshwater tank (cycled 3 months ago) has lots of algae. My nitrate level is about 40ppm and nitrite level is 0 ammonia is 0. Ph is 6.8, and the algae is growing quite well. I have approx 30 fish (5 varieties of Tetras), nothing big yet. Water is clean canister and undergravel filter in use. What am I missing?

Administrator — Thu, 17 Nov 2011 01:20:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Algae needs two items to grow, light and food (by-product of waste like phosphates and nitrates). By limiting one or both of these items you can help reduce algae growth.
You didn't mention if you have live plants or what type of lighting you have. If you don't have any live plants, simply reduing the amount of time your lights are on can help reduce algae growth. Keeping the lights off for a week or two, then slowly increasing the time they are on can help. Running your lights for only 2-4 hours per day will help quite a bit. If you have live plants that need the light on, you may still be able to reduce the length of time the lights are on but I wouldn't leave them in the dark.
Reducing nitrates (as well as phosphates if you can check them) can help as well. Doing water changes will work great at reducing their levels (assuimg the source water isn't high in nitrates and/or phosphate as well). There are also a couple of products that can help such as API Phos-zorb or Nitra-zorb or Seachem also has a couple of products that can help.
In addition to reducing nitrates/phosphates and lighting it is important to have fish that will graze upon the algae. Fish like plecostomus, otocinclus, flying foxes and many others will help graze upon the algae for you.
If you have any more questions feel free to send us an email directly to customercare@marinedepot.com and these are generally answered in less that 24 hours.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

8 Steps to Better Water Quality by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Wed, 09 Nov 2011 09:11:00 GMT
Abstract:

Your aquarium inhabitants rely on you for everything. It should therefore be your #1 priority as an aquarium keeper to provide your wet pets with the best habitat possible. Keeping your tank parameters in check and your water clean is the best way to keep livestock healthy and prevent nuisance algae growth.
This article will cover the most common, most effective ways to maintain high quality water in your aquarium. While our focus will be reef environments, many of the recommendations below will also apply to saltwater fish-only and freshwater aquarium systems.
Biological Filtration
Without any biological filtration, your tank can quickly become a toxic cesspool of fish waste. A properly set up biological filter allows beneficial bacteria to breakdown fish waste to make your water safe for livestock. We recommend using high quality live rock as the biological backbone of a reef aquarium system. For fish-only and freshwater aquariums, you can use a wet/dry,

I receive your email newsletters and when I click to expand the screen to full screen to watch your videos the screen goes black. I hear the audio but I have to go to the smaller screen to have the video. Is there a fix for this? Thank you. And thank you for the newsletter, I enjoy it.

Administrator — Thu, 03 Nov 2011 10:04:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
I contacted our IT department to see if I could find out a little more information about this for you, but we need a little more information.
Can you let us know the specific video you were watching and which browser (and version) you are using. That would help our tech team troubleshoot the problem.
You can email me directly at keithm@marinedepot.com.
Looking forward to assisting you with this issue.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Ok so I am looking for 96 watt power compact bulbs and want to know the best set up as far as bulb spectrum goes. I have 4 bulbs that need to be replaced and was wondering should I get 1-460nm, 1-420nm, 1-460nm/10000K and 1-6700K/10000K? In my 75 gal tank I have some softies and a few encrusting corals. I also have a rose anemone.Thanks!

Administrator — Thu, 03 Nov 2011 10:01:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Have a look at this page for a description of some of the more popular bulb types:
http://www.marinedepot.com/lighting_powercompact_compact-fluorescent_bulbs_information-ap.html
If you were to go with the combination you mention the tank would look unbalanced color wise. I am assuming you have 4 bulbs that are somewhat overlapping since you state they are 96 watt (normally they are around 36" long). If you bulbs don't overlap and are about 21-22" long you actually have 65 watt bulbs.
Either way I normally suggest to do 2 types of bulbs over the tank. If you like a more white tank then I would suggest 2 of the 6700/10000K bulbs and two 460 or 420nm bulbs. If you like a more blue tank, then I would suggest 2 of the 460nm/10000K bulbs and two 420nm/460nm bulbs.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let me know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Any specific and actionable ideas on clearing a reef tank of "spaghetti" worms? They are especially and quickly detrimental to most zoanthids and eventually to many other types of corals. A hitchhiker that is extremely difficult to apprehend, even when using a quarantine tank. I have heard that pig "wormer" medication can kill them, but dont have nearly enough specifics to risk such a powerful drug in my established reef with nearly all kinds of corals, anemones, tube worms, feather dusters, cla

Administrator — Wed, 02 Nov 2011 05:22:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Without a picture it can be hard to determine exactly what you have. There are a few worms that are called "spaghetti" worms, most seem harmless to reef tanks. If the ones you have seem to be causing issues you may want to try some type of predator who may pick at them. A few differents ones that come to mind that may work include arrow crabs (they are known to eat bristleworms), some type of shrimp (maybe a coral banded, cleaner or peppermint) or maybe some type of a dottyback (like a neon or orchid).
Hopefully one of those choices might be able to help out with your worms.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

How to Get Rid of Reef Aquarium Pests by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad (Updated 10/26/11)

Dot Yuson — Tue, 25 Oct 2011 09:41:00 GMT
Abstract:
To many reef keepers biodiversity is the key to a beautiful tank and a healthy ecosystem. Some of my favorite moments enjoying my aquariums are discovering a new hitchhiker that has come in on my live rock. Many organisms such as sponges, feather dusters, snails, and the occasional coral can help beatify a tank and are often proof of a thriving mini ecosystem. But some stowaways cause more trouble than they are worth. Some can be dangerous to your fish, while others can harm you, and if released into the wild some can harm the environment. This article will focus on the identification and removal of some of nastiest and hardest to remove of these organisms.

Aiptasias/Majano Anemones

Description:

Aiptasias or glass anemones are small light brown, almost clear, anemones usually less than an inch long. However, they can grow to 3-4 inches long. They possess thin long pointed tentacles. Majanos on the other hand can take many disguises. They too are small ½ - ¾ inch long, and come in many different colors from green to brown. Its tentacles are short and rounded. Often these anemones are confused with button polyps, zooanthids, or other small anemones.

Problem:

The problem with these organisms is two-fold. They pack a powerful sting that can injure surrounding corals and fish. Also, if left unchecked they reproduce quickly and can take over a tank. Often th

I just got a 180 glass tank. My dream set up would be to have 1)Powder Blue Tang, 3 Yellow Tangs, 1 Coral Beauty, 7 green Chromis, mated pair Pecula Clown, mated pair black and white Clown, 1 Lawnmower Blenny, 1 Jawfish, Pair of Cleaner Wrasses, Anthias Square spot, Cleaner Shrimp, Blue lobster and a cleaner package of snails, crabs, arrow crabs, ect. I want to set up a skimmer and a refugium( to have edibles for the fish) and want to have corals ,both hard and soft,of course anemones for the C

Administrator — Wed, 19 Oct 2011 02:02:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your question.
Unfortunately the end of the question (where the actual question would have been) was cut off due to character limits. I'm not sure if you were asking if the choices of fish and invertebrates would be good or if you were looking for assitance in recommended equipment.
As far as the livestock, I would recommend not getting 3 yellow tangs. While they MAY get along, especially at first, many times the dominant one will eventually pick on the lower two and stress them to the point that it could cause disease or starvation to them. You may also find that the two pairs of clownfish will not coexist even in that volume of water. Clownfish can become fairly territorial and the dominant pair may cause problems for the others. I have seen multiple pairs mixed though, so you just need to be aware it may not work out. I do not recommend having cleaner wrasses in anyone's aquariums as they generally do not survive long in home aquariums. While you may occasionally find that one hobbyist who says they have had them for a long time, most hobbyist are lucky if they live 2-3 months. They are, in my opinion, a fish that should stay in the wild.
If you were looking for recommendations on equipment for your tank, I would recommend contacting us directly at customercare@marinedepot.com and we can assist in recommendations of equipment for your tank.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

I have a rain soft water softener for my house and was wondering if that would affect the RO DI system? The softener does require the use of salt.

Administrator — Thu, 13 Oct 2011 04:24:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
The salt from your water softener can have an effect on the filters and membranes in your RO/DI system. While the salts should be filtered out by the RO membrane, it may end up shortening the life of the membrane. You may find you need to change it more frequently than normal.
If possible I would suggest trying to hook up your RO/DI system before the water softener to help prevent this.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

5 Reactors for Reef Aquariums By Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Fri, 07 Oct 2011 04:31:00 GMT
Abstract:
There are several different types of reactors available for marine and reef aquarium systems.

In general, reactors serve one of two purposes:
To replenish depleted elements in our aquarium water
To remove dissolved organics or chemicals from aquarium water
In this short article, we'll explain what the most popular types of reactors are, what they are used for and which type of filter media you should use inside of them.

MEDIA REACTORS/PHOSPHATE REACTORS

The most popular reactors we carry are media reactors, also referred to as fluidized bed filters (FBF) or phosphate reactors. Media reactors have quickly become an essential part of many hobbyists' aquarium filtration systems. They are easy to setup, easy to maintain and affordable, even for reefers on a strict budget.

Media reactors typically employ an up-flow (also called reverse flow) design that pushes water from the bottom of the reactor up through the media and back out into your aquarium. The upward water flow tumbles the media around inside the reactor, allowing for greater contact between your tank water and the bacterial film on the media. It also reduces the likelihood of channeling.

The most common types of filter media used inside a media reactor are:
Phosphate removers (high phosphate can inhibit coral growth and fuels algae)
Examples:

Purchased 2 150watt metal hylide lights(aquticlife)-need replacement Ballast for them. The ballast seem to exhaust themselves after 6 monts of use. I have had nothing but problems with these.(The swing arm technology type)-This 1st month in use , the swing arm broke. Eletricuted all of my fish. I spent $750 on this system with nothing but problems. Can I not get parts for these??

Administrator — Mon, 03 Oct 2011 08:51:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
It is not normal for the ballast to die after 6 months. Many people, including myself, have had ballast last well over 5 years without any issue (some even much longer than that). I would suggest contacting AquaticLife directly to see if they can better troubleshoot what might be going on with your system. Their contact information is as follows:
Customer Support
Toll Free: 1-888-548-3480
Local: 1-818-768-6943
Monday – Friday
8:00 AM – 4:00 PM Pacific Time
customersupport@aquaticlife.com
Mailing Address
2416 West Victory Blvd. #136
Burbank, CA 91506
If there is anything else we can help you out with please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Which LED light is enough for a 80 gallon saltwater tank that can have basic coral and plant life in the tank? I do not want to overspend, but I do not want coral or plants to die.

Administrator — Sat, 17 Sep 2011 23:46:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
You didn't mention the dimensions of your tank so it is very difficult to recommend any one particluar fixture for your tank. Also by "basic coral", I'm assuming you are referring to lower light needing corals but again without knowing exactly what your plans are for actual coral and other livestock (for example clams or anemones) it can be hard to give specific suggestions on fixtures.
My best suggestion would be to either email us directly (customercare@marinedepot.com) with your tank dimensions as well as possible corals and inhabitants you would like to keep or post these on our forums so we can give better recommendations for you.
As far as what I would recommend for your tank there are two fixtures that I would recommend that will work well for most corals and aquariums. First is the Maxspect Mazarra fixtures (customizable to fit your tank size) or the Ecotech Marine Radion fixture. There are other good options such as the Kessil A150W pendants that are a very nice LED option. You can view all the LED lights Marine Depot carries here as well.
With a little more information we will have a better idea of what will work best with your aquarium.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

7 Ways to Automate Your Aquarium By Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Administrator — Sat, 17 Sep 2011 23:36:00 GMT
Abstract:
Whether you are going on vacation or simply want to reduce the daily responsibilities required to maintain your aquarium, tank automation can help. Automating your tank can be as simple as turning the lights on-and-off each day to more complex actions like topping off water lost from evaporation and even dosing additives. Timers, system controllers and dosing pumps are invaluable tools for modern aquarium keepers. In this article, we’ll review the Top 7 ways you can automate your aquarium system.

1. LIGHTING

Reef aquarium inhabitants will benefit from a consistent light schedule. Your fish will become active just before your lights come on and will wind down later in the day before the lights go out in the evening. By incorporating actinic bulbs into your lighting system, you can recreate a natural "dawn to dusk" effect. Then add some moonlights to your timer to complete the 24-hour cycle for your tank.

To automate your lighting cycle, use a simple timer or a power strip with built-in timers. Modern light fixtures often have timers built right into the units (see
The key to success with acclimating new corals to aquarium lights is assuming the lowest common denominator and feeding the corals well during the first weeks of acclimation. It is much easier for a stressed coral (dark transit, delays on import, etc.) hailing from a bright light niche to adapt to temporarily attenuated light than to shock and recover under intensities similar to their for

The Dos and Don’ts of Protein Skimming by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Fri, 26 Aug 2011 02:23:00 GMT
Abstract:
After lighting, protein skimmers are probably the most talked about piece of equipment for marine/reef aquariums.

In this short article, we're going to breakdown the dos and don'ts of protein skimming. Whether you're shopping for your first protein skimmer or looking to upgrade to a new model, the best practices listed below will help you shop, set up and maintain your skimmer so your tank can reap the maximum benefits.

We'll begin by explaining what a protein skimmer is and what benefits it can provide for your aquarium.

PROTEIN SKIMMER OVERVIEW

A protein skimmer is a piece of filtration equipment designed to remove dissolved organics from aquarium water. To accomplish this feat, very small bubbles are generated inside the skimmer body. Dissolved organics are attracted to the bubbles and "stick" to them as they rise into a collection cup for easy removal. The waste inside the collection cup is called skimmate.

online forum here for more information about treating diseases in your aquarium.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Harlequin Tusk - have had fish for 8 days. Noticed a coupleof spots on its tail fin and thought it was ich. However the spots have notdisappeared (ped) or multiplied in the 8 days that I have had him. Ihave checked all other fish in the tank and do not see any spots on any ofthem. Could it be ich? Should I lower salinity? And if so how low and forhow long considering I have softies and anemone in my reef tank?

Administrator — Tue, 16 Aug 2011 19:38:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
If the "spots" haven't moved or changed it does not sound like ich. When you see the spots from ich, that is just one part of the life cycle of ich and they usually will drop off within a few days.
Without seeing it in person it is very hard to say what the best course of action is. It could be nothing to worry about, or it could be something that could spread and be harmful to your fish.
My best suggestion would be to monitor it closely and see if it changes at all. If there is no change at all it could simple be some type of deformation of the fish's fins. If it appears to be spreading you may have to remove all the fish and put them in a hospital tank for treatment.
You may want to visit our online forums where you can get a lot of information about fish diseases and treatment here.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

the best way to clean Acrylic salt water tankThe hole tank is solid depositsits a 70 gallon easy to get in side it is empty and has been for a year

Administrator — Mon, 25 Jul 2011 20:04:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
One of the best ways to help rid the tank of calcium deposits is to use some type of acid to dissolve them. You can use white vinegar or if you are careful and can clean the tank outside you can use muratic acid. Fill the tank with freshwater and then add the acid (you should see the deposits start to "fizz" off). Make sure you rinse well afterwards.
Acylic tanks can scratch very easy, so if you need to use an algae scraper or pad to help clean make sure they are acrylic safe.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Beginner’s Guide to Planted Tanks by Robert Farnsworth, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Fri, 15 Jul 2011 02:47:00 GMT
Abstract:
In recent years we have seen many advances in aquarium technology and many new approaches to aquariums in general. One of the most interesting and artistic advances has been the planted aquarium. Well-thought out aquascapes, plant selection/availability and technological developments have definitely raised the bar for what is the ultimate planted aquarium today. Much of this has been made possible by the work of one of my favorite aquarists and photographers, Takashi Amano, and his efforts with the "Nature Aquarium" concept of aquarium husbandry.

I have found that many of the same challenges and rewards experienced in reefkeeping can be found when creating a planted aquarium of this stature. This article will offer some insight on the necessary equipment and techniques to set up an amazing planted freshwater aquascape.

SETTING UP YOUR AQUARIUM

Sufficient lighting, proper substrate, fertilizers/nutrients and CO2 are the key elements to keeping a successful planted aquarium. These key factors cover the basic needs for photosynthesis in your aquarium and are what set planted tanks apart from other freshwater aquaria. Standard equipment, like a reliable heater and adequate filtration, are still required. This article isn't going to focus on equipment you're probably already familiar with. Instead, we'll focus on the supplies needed to succes

How to Mix Saltwater and Perform a Water Change (updated 8/3/10) by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Administrator — Thu, 07 Jul 2011 23:01:00 GMT
Abstract:

Introduction

Today’s aquarist takes every precaution to keep their aquarium healthy and looking great.

After all, this hobby is a large investment in time, money and effort. One of the greatest factors, often overlooked, is water.

Clean, pure saltwater is the basis for everything in your aquarium. Whether you are battling hair algae or have experienced a string of mortalities, the problem can often be traced back to the water you are putting into the tank. Not only is it important to look at the quality of water used, but also the quantity and frequency of water changes as well.

Our tap water supply contains many different chemicals to make the water safe for human consumption. These same chemicals can, however, be deadly to your tank.

The worst of these toxins are chlorine and chloramines. These additives kill bacteria and other organisms in tap water, but even in low concentrations, will burn the gills of your fish.

It is therefore necessary to pre-treat water before it goes into our tanks.

For a fish-only system, a water conditioner will adequately neutralize chlorine.

For reef tanks, there are other chemicals in

6 Ways to Improve Aquarium Water Flow by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Administrator — Thu, 07 Jul 2011 22:59:00 GMT
Abstract:
Lack of water circulation in an aquarium, especially a reef tank, can lead to many problems. One of the problems is the reason so many aquarists decide to leave the hobby: nuisance algae growths. Poor circulation can also lead to low oxygen levels, uneven water temperatures (warmer and colder areas within the tank), reduced coral growth and even death in corals since they rely on water flow to bring food to them as well as whisk away waste.

This short article will teach you how you can improve water flow in your tank today. It will also give you a strong foundation for how to properly set up your next tank.

Powerheads. These are the staple of water circulation in our aquariums and luckily there are many choices available. From "standard" nozzle output powerheads, like Hagen AquaClear or Rio Powerheads, to the "stream" or "propeller" style powerheads, like the Tunze Stream or NanoStream, Hydor

How to Move into a Bigger/Smaller Aquarium by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Administrator — Thu, 07 Jul 2011 22:58:00 GMT
Abstract:
The aquarium hobby is addictive—there is just no way around it.

If you are anything like me, your enthusiasm and passion for aquarium keeping goes through highs and lows. Often accompanying these highs and lows is the desire to change aquariums. Most of us fantasize about upsizing to a larger system. Of course, life sometimes dictates the need to downsize to a smaller tank.

Moving into a bigger/smaller aquarium can be a challenge, so I thought I would share my experiences changing tanks over the years to help you go big or go nano.

The Three P's: Plan, Purchase and Patience
Plan ahead
Decide what size aquarium you want to go with, make sure the dimensions of the tank fit the area you would like to place it and research the equipment required for the new setup. If possible, come up with a "wish list" of items you need to get the tank up and running (the "Save for Later" option in the MarineDepot.com Shopping Cart is a great way to do this). If you have questions about what you may need or would like a second opinion, we are always here to help. You can call us toll-free at 1-800-566-FISH, email or post a question in our forum.

Purchase the items for your aquarium
Whether you are able to purchase them all at once or need to slowly piece the tank together over time, make sure you buy all the necessary items before attempting to set up the tank. By having all the items on hand, you can make sure everything f

Must-Have Products for the Reef Aquarium by Robert Farnsworth, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Administrator — Thu, 07 Jul 2011 22:56:00 GMT
Abstract:
When building a reef aquarium, you will find an endless variety of products and components available. For beginning hobbyists, this can be both intimidating and confusing. Sometimes products prove to be very useful, making time spent maintaining your reef much easier. Other times products can be misleading, mislabeled or simply not right for you.

Today we are outlining a list of the key products that will make your reef keeping experience a success. We hope to provide you with enough detail to make choosing the right products easy (although you can always contact us for free one-on-one support). Keep in mind this is not a complete list of all the equipment you'll need. We are focusing on the components that will help you succeed in the reefing side of the hobby.

Must-Have Equipment for a Reef Aquarium:
Sufficient lighting
Quality protein skimmer
Refractometer and thermometer
Calcium and Alkalinity test kits and additives
RO/DI system
Appropriate powerheads

Sufficient Lighting

Properly lighting your reef is one of the most important things you can do. Many of the corals available in our hobby rely on photosynthesis to survive. Having ample light for these specimens is so important that standard output aquarium lights will not do the job. Recreating the natural environment of your corals is the ultimate goal and ample lighting proves to be a key factor for success.

Among the types of lights available today, you w

Aquariums: Buy or Build? By Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Administrator — Thu, 07 Jul 2011 22:55:00 GMT
Abstract:
So you are finally ready to take the plunge! To get your feet-and hands-wet setting up the aquarium you have always wanted. But you are on the fence about whether you should purchase an All-In-One (AIO) aquarium or piece together your own system. If this scenario sounds familiar, you've come to the right place.

In this article we will discuss the pros and cons of buying a plug-and-play tank vs. doing it yourself. Our goal is to provide you with the educational ammo you need to pull the trigger and purchase the tank of your dreams.

ALL-IN-ONE AQUARIUMS

There are several manufacturers making AIO systems nowadays, so you'll have plenty of options to choose from. Be sure to read what is included with the systems you are considering because they are in no way standardized. What may seem like a bargain could end up costing you more than you think! Below you'll find some of the bigger pros and cons of AIO aquarium systems.

PROS:
The greatest benefit of buying an AIO aquarium system is that all of the guesswork has been eliminated. Every piece of equipment has been designed and tested to work together seamlessly. A great example of this is the built-in Power Centers and timers in

Setting Up a Reverse Osmosis (RO) or Reverse Osmosis/Deionizing (RO/DI) Tap Water Filter by Keith MacNeil, a Marine Depot Staff Member

Dot Yuson — Thu, 07 Jul 2011 02:31:00 GMT
Abstract:

Before we get into the actual setting up of your RO or RO/DI filter we should go over a couple of basic FAQ's people might have about their systems:

What does an RO or RO/DI system do? RO and RO/DI filters will help in the removal of impurities from your tap water such as chlorine, chloramines, pesticides, phosphates, heavy metals and many others. These impurities may contribute to the growth of nuisance algae, while others can cause even larger problems.

How does the water flow through the filter? While there are many different set ups for RO and RO/DI systems, most standard systems will have 2 or 3 vertically arranged cartridge filters along with an RO membrane housing that lays horizontally. The tap water will first enter the filter and go through the sediment cartridge and then through a carbon block filter. These two filters help remove sediments, chlorine, pesticides*, and cyrptosporidium and Giardia cysts*. From there the water travels to the RO membrane housing to be further filtered. The Captive Purity RO membranes will remove 96% of nitrates and up to up to 99.5% of silicate from the water. The water then exits the RO membrane housing from two different ports, one is the product water and the other is the waste water. For a standard RO unit, this is all the water filtration that will be done, but for RO/DI units the product water is then run through a DI resin cartridge for further water purification.

customercare@marinedepot.com.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

I have a 30x12x18 reef tank which I downsized two years ago from a 60 gallon. . I am currently running MH 175w and a dual 24" actinic. The tank has two brain chorals and a leather. I also have a schrimp and gobie. I am looking for something to host my clown. The Metal Halide (retro bare bulb) is starting to burn the canopy (wood) sides. I have th etop lined with metal sheeting but that gets eally hot too. . So...1) What would you reccomend for lighting given my tank? I am not looking to spend

Administrator — Thu, 23 Jun 2011 21:23:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
You didn't mention if you have a cooling fan in the canopy or not. If you don't, simply adding a cooling fan may solve the problem you are currently having.
30" tanks can be hard to light as most companies make fixtures that are 24" or 36", but not 30". If you wanted to change over to a different type of lighting I would recommend looking into either T5 or LED lighting. Since you mention you are not looking to spend a lot of money I would suggest T5.
If you don't mind ditching the canopy, AquaticLife makes a great 30" fixture that would work great over your tank. It comes complete with bulbs, controller and moonlights. If that is out of your budget you could get one or two of their 30" Link fixtures. They won't have the moonlights or controller, but do still include the bulbs.
If you didn't want to get rid of the canopy you could look at getting a T5 retrofit kit and mount it inside of the canopy.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

I put a 1.5" Blue Hippo Tang (now 3") in my tank around 7 months ago. Since then the tang has gotten aggressive to the other fish. How do I get the tang out of the tank without tearing it apart?

Administrator — Thu, 23 Jun 2011 21:13:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
I would suggest picking up a fish trap that will help get the fish out of the tank without tearing things apart. When I had to catch fish out from my 120 gallon reef tank I used the Reef Gently AccliMate. It is a multi-purpose tool that should work well for you. It may take a little bit of time, but with a little bit of patience you will be able to catch the tang. Start by putting the trap in the tank so the fish get use to it. You can put some food inside of it so the fish swim in to get use to it. Once they are more comfortable with it being in the tank you can try to start trapping the tang.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

About a month ago I got two maroon clowns that were just under an inch long and was told that they would become a pair. Within the past week or two they have been constantly fighting. Are they fighting to see who will be male and female and will they become a pair?

Administrator — Thu, 12 May 2011 05:08:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Maroon clownfish can be one of the more aggressive of the clownfish (to themselves and to other fish). Sometimes they will pair up and sometimes it doesn't work out. I have even seen ones that were paired for a long time and then suddenly the female beat up the male.
The fighting more than likely is a battle of becoming the dominant fish (that will be the female). As to whether or not they will become a pair is hard to say. Sometimes they do, but unfortunately sometimes they don't. If one of the fish is visably becoming beaten up (torn fins, sores, ect...) I would suggest removing that fish from the tank.
Unfortunately the Maroon clownfish aren't always the easiest to pair up. Hopefully your two will work it out, but if not please be prepared to remove one if it is getting beaten up badly.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Thank you for the recent posts about moving tanks. I need some advise on how best to tansfer the contents of an existing 38 gallon salt water tank to a 65 gallon tank. The 38 gallon has 5 fish, some corals and a few invertibrates.The new tank is going to go in the same place as the exisiting one. Can this move be done all in 1 day? What helpful hints to you have so I dont kill all my fish? Thank you!

Administrator — Thu, 12 May 2011 05:00:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
There are a couple of ways you can approach this move, but no matter how you approach the move you will need to have some premade, heated saltwater ready to go (I would suggest at least 40 gallons if possible).
If the tank is light enough (or can be made light enough by removing some of the water) you could try sliding the tank a few feet from its current location (make sure the rock won't fall possibly cracking the glass). From there you can set up the new tank in that spot and transfer all the water, rock and livestock over and then top off with the premade saltwater.
If the tank is not light enough or it simply is not possible to move it with the contents intact you will need to put the contents of the 38 into a temporary holding bin. You can use rubbermaid containers or other suitable holding containers that are safe for saltwater (I have even used plastic swimming pools in the past). Once you have moved everything into the holding bin(s), making sure they are heated and have water circulation running you can set up the 65 gallon. Once you have it in place you can start moving the contents out of the holding bin(s) and into the new tank.
You should be able to accomplish this easily in a days time assuming you don't need to let any types of glue dry or anything to cure in the new set up.
If you need any further assistance please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

I am considering opening a fish & reptile store. There are none in the area I live. Would we be able to work out an arrangement for my supplies and stock? If a customer were to order something through me, could it ship to them from you? Thank you.

Administrator — Fri, 22 Apr 2011 03:59:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
Marine Depot is strictly an etailer and doesn't have a dropship program. You may want to contact them directly at customercare@marinedepot.com for more information.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

HelloNot sure what type of light to get for our tank. Its 50 gallons. We have goldfish fresh waterAnd plants insidethanks

Administrator — Sun, 10 Apr 2011 20:35:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
You didn't mention if the plants were live plants, but I'm going to assume they are. Goldfish will eat many different types of plants, so you may find after a while the plants are just stems with no leaves.
I would suggest looking at a T5 fixture for your tank. AquaticLife makes a great line of freshwater T5 fixtures that will suit your tank.
AquaticLife 4 bulb fixture with built in timer
AquaticLife 2 bulb fixture
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Best Clean Up Crews & Equipment by Keith MacNeil, a Marine Depot Staff Member

Dot Yuson — Thu, 07 Apr 2011 06:41:00 GMT
Abstract:
Spring time has lots of difference faces depending on where you are located. For me living in the Northeast, it means I can finally get outside and tackle the chore of cleaning up my yard from winter (and sneaking out to the golf course as well). But no matter where you live, all of us aquarists all have one common chore that needs to be done, regardless of the time of year: Tank Cleaning.

We have lots of different options to help tackle this chore, from natural means to good old elbow grease and an algae scrapers. In this article I am going to start by going over some of the more popular critters for your clean up crew (CUC) as well as some of the best tools of the trade that you will be able to use to assist your CUC.

Snails:

Snails are one of the most popular members of a CUC and there are many different types available to us. Snails can help graze on algae (all different types of algae), feed on detritus as well as excess food that the fish miss. Listed below are some of the more popular snails and what their main food source consists of:

Astraea Snails: Herbivore, eats mainly film algae such as diatoms and sometimes cyanobacteria. It may also pick at hair algae and other green algae.
Lumatek Multi-wattage ballast. This ballast has the ability to run bulbs of 150, 175, 250 w and HQI bulbs with a flip of the switch. So if you decide down the road to upgrade to a different fixture of higher wattage, you won't need to buy a new ballast as well.
The second ballast I would recommend is the Sunlight Supply Galaxy Select-a-watt ballast. These are electronic ballasts that also allow you to dial in the correct wattage.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO THIN OUT MY MUSHROOMS? I HAVE SOME RED AND RICORDIA MUSHROOMS THAT SEEM TO BE TAKING OVER ALL OF MY ROCK, INVADING OTHER CORALS. IVE TRIED TO CUT SOME OFF WITH SCISSORS AND A RAZOR BLADE, BUT THEY QUICKLY RETRACT AND STICK TO THE ROCK.

Administrator — Sun, 13 Mar 2011 12:28:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
There are a couple of different things you can do to help eliminate them in the tank. First is using a wood chisel to "scrape" them off the rock. The reason I put scrape in quotes is you actually want to remove a sliver of the rock under the foot of the mushroom. If you leave some of the mushroom behind it can regrow. This work very well if you can remove the rock from the tank, but it can be done in tank as well.
Some people have had success using one of the aiptasia/majano anemone removers like the Red Sea AiptasiaX or AVA Aiptasia Solution. These are a liquid product that you squirt onto the mushrooms and it will sometimes kill the mushrooms.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M
Marine Depot Customer Service

my reef aquarium has ich and i dont have medical tank are they anyway to treat my fish without causeing my rock to die out

Administrator — Sun, 13 Mar 2011 12:21:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
There are a couple of reef safe ich treatments you could try, but no matter what you use you need to be careful not to overdose and watch your tank closely. Have water ready to do a water change if needed as well as carbon to help remove any medication if needed.
Chem-Marine Stop Parasite
Kent Marine RxP Marine Parasite
Kordon Ich Attack
Polyp Lab Medic
Ruby Reef Kich Ich
If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

If our Salt Water Reef aquarium calcium levels test at 500 mg/l, is that too high, and what do we do if it is?

Administrator — Mon, 07 Mar 2011 22:24:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
A calcium level of 500 mg/l is higher than most people run their tanks at but as long as your alkalinity level is also running high it may not be an issue. When high levels (or low levels) of calcium occur in the tank and are out of balance with the alkalinity within the tank, that is normally where this becomes an issue.
Have a look at this article about Calcium and Alkalnity for more explanation. Below are a paragraph from the article that is very helpful:
At the same time that calcium is measured, alkalinity levels should be measured as well. There is a strong relationship between calcium levels and alkalinity that should not be neglected. If the calcium levels get high (over 500) there is a tendency for alkalinity to drop. Conversely, if alkalinity levels get too high, calcium levels will tend to fall as calcium precipitates out. Therefore, check for a desired calcium level between 400 and 450 ppm, and alkalinity levels between 2.5-3.5 meq/L (7-10 dKH).

If you are using a calcium reactor, dosing kalkwasser or using some other type of calcium supplement I would suggest dialing them back. See where you alkalinity levels are at as well, hopefully they are on the higher side as well (to be in balance with the calcium levels).
My best solution would be to do some weekly water changes of between 30-40%. Most salt mixes should mix at a calcium level between 360-420. Doing the water changes should help to bring the calcium levels down and hopefully also bring the calcium and alkalinity levels into balance if they aren't already.
If there is anything else we can do for you please let me know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

i have a 40 gallon tank up and running its got a catfish and 2 silver dollars in it its only had water in it for a few days (r o water)i want to start an african chilid tank prefferably i want bichardi cichlids but i would like anything tankmate wise that will also go with them plus i know i need supplements in the water any help?

Administrator — Wed, 02 Mar 2011 04:41:00 GMT
Abstract:
Hello and thank you for your inquiry.
First thing I would do is trade back the silver dollars as they aren't a good mix with african cichlids. Depending on what type of catfish it is, that may or may not be a good mix as well. Synodontis catfish generally are ok with them, but many other types should not be mixed.
African cichlids like water that is hard and has a high pH, so if you are using RO water you will need to buffer it to raise the pH and hardness. You can view some of the available products we carry here. The Kent Marine A F Cichlid Buffer would be one good option.
African Cichlids also like to have lots of caves and rock work to move in and out of, so make sure you have lots of rock work for them in the tank.
Neolamprologus brichardi are found in Lake Tanganyika in Africa. For suitable tank mates I would suggest looking for other cichlids from this lake such as some of the Julidochromis (regani or transcriptus) or other species within the Neolamprologus family like Neolamprologus leleupi. When you shop at a store let them know you are looking for fish from Lake Tanganyika.
I hope that helped out some. If you have any other questions please let us know.
Keith M.
Marine Depot Customer Service

Marine Depot Education Center - Knowledgebase

Top 7 Live Rock Hitchhikers by Robert Farnsworth, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

How to Setup a Media Reactor by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Aquarium Plumbing Guide & Glossary By Robert Farnsworth, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

I recently started adding Kent Purple Up to my salt tank. The next day I showed a high nitrate test result. The day prior to adding this product my tank (fowlr set up for 5 yrs) showed zero nitrates. Is this a false positive due to additive?

What is the Best Diet to Feed My Coral? by Grant Lubbock, MarineDepot.com Customer Care

The Fundamentals of Live Rock in Aquascaping by Mike Paletta

hi please could you advise me ,i have a 125 juwel fish tank ,is it better to have the flow of filter on full all the time .thanks lynda

Top 10 Reasons to Frag Your Corals by Keith MacNeil

Proper Acclimation Procedures by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

How to Set-up an Auto Top-Off System By Daniel Somboonsiri, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

8 Steps to Better Water Quality by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

I receive your email newsletters and when I click to expand the screen to full screen to watch your videos the screen goes black. I hear the audio but I have to go to the smaller screen to have the video. Is there a fix for this? Thank you. And thank you for the newsletter, I enjoy it.

How to Get Rid of Reef Aquarium Pests by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad (Updated 10/26/11)

I have a rain soft water softener for my house and was wondering if that would affect the RO DI system? The softener does require the use of salt.

5 Reactors for Reef Aquariums By Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Which LED light is enough for a 80 gallon saltwater tank that can have basic coral and plant life in the tank? I do not want to overspend, but I do not want coral or plants to die.

7 Ways to Automate Your Aquarium By Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

The Dos and Don’ts of Protein Skimming by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

the best way to clean Acrylic salt water tankThe hole tank is solid depositsits a 70 gallon easy to get in side it is empty and has been for a year

Beginner’s Guide to Planted Tanks by Robert Farnsworth, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

How to Mix Saltwater and Perform a Water Change (updated 8/3/10) by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

6 Ways to Improve Aquarium Water Flow by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

How to Move into a Bigger/Smaller Aquarium by Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Must-Have Products for the Reef Aquarium by Robert Farnsworth, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Aquariums: Buy or Build? By Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Setting Up a Reverse Osmosis (RO) or Reverse Osmosis/Deionizing (RO/DI) Tap Water Filter by Keith MacNeil, a Marine Depot Staff Member

I put a 1.5" Blue Hippo Tang (now 3") in my tank around 7 months ago. Since then the tang has gotten aggressive to the other fish. How do I get the tang out of the tank without tearing it apart?

About a month ago I got two maroon clowns that were just under an inch long and was told that they would become a pair. Within the past week or two they have been constantly fighting. Are they fighting to see who will be male and female and will they become a pair?

I am considering opening a fish & reptile store. There are none in the area I live. Would we be able to work out an arrangement for my supplies and stock? If a customer were to order something through me, could it ship to them from you? Thank you.

HelloNot sure what type of light to get for our tank. Its 50 gallons. We have goldfish fresh waterAnd plants insidethanks

Best Clean Up Crews & Equipment by Keith MacNeil, a Marine Depot Staff Member

CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO THIN OUT MY MUSHROOMS? I HAVE SOME RED AND RICORDIA MUSHROOMS THAT SEEM TO BE TAKING OVER ALL OF MY ROCK, INVADING OTHER CORALS. IVE TRIED TO CUT SOME OFF WITH SCISSORS AND A RAZOR BLADE, BUT THEY QUICKLY RETRACT AND STICK TO THE ROCK.

my reef aquarium has ich and i dont have medical tank are they anyway to treat my fish without causeing my rock to die out

If our Salt Water Reef aquarium calcium levels test at 500 mg/l, is that too high, and what do we do if it is?