How to Care for SPS Corals by Robert Farnsworth

Dot Yuson — Fri, 10 May 2013 02:45:00 GMT

Abstract:

Within the reef aquarium hobby, you often hear the terms soft corals, LPS and SPS used to identify different groups of corals. Grouping corals in this fashion is useful because it not only describes the coral itself, but also helps aquarium hobbyists understand what a particular coral will need from us (lighting, placement, flow, parameters, etc.) in order to survive.

If you missed our first article in this series, be sure to check out How to Care for LPS Corals when you're done with this article. It is written in the same easy-to-understand, no nonsense style.

Before we dive into SPS coral care, let's take a quick look at each coral type to identify their key features, similarities and differences:

Due to vacations, other recreational activities and lack of time, our tanks may no longer look their best. When this happens we generally notice that a lot has happened to the tank that needs improving. Algae may be a little thicker, the water may not be as clear and the corals may not be as healthy and vigorous as they were when we were spending significant time on the tank in the cooler months. In the worst-case scenario, fish may be missing, corals dead or dying and the algae so thick that the live rock cannot be seen.

Where to start?

Fortunately, even when a tank has been badly mismanaged, it can usually be brought back up to speed with only a moderate amount of effort. When a tank has been set up properly it is usually not necessary to tear the tank completely apart as was often the case when undergravel filters were used. The key to restoring a tank is to determine what produced the problems and then how to gradually rectify them. The reason that patience is required is that in many instances, where water conditions have deteriorated over time, the tank's inhabitants have gott

Thinking about purchasing a 3 gallon tank. What type of Betta fish would be good, and would I need a filter?

Keith MacNeil — Tue, 07 May 2013 12:08:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

Any of the different varieties of betta fish would do great in a three gallon tank. While a filter isn't needed it will help to keep the tank cleaner for your fish. Just make sure the filter doesn't make too much flow within the tank that would make it difficult for the betta to swim around.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

Hello, I have a five gallon marine fish tank and a Ive been experiencing after I clean it that it gets cloudy for a while and then clears up, any ideas why ? thank you.

Keith MacNeil — Tue, 07 May 2013 12:05:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

It is hard to say exactly why the tank gets cloudy, but more than likely it is due to distrupting the biological balance within the tank. If you have a sand bed in the tank you may be distrupting that as well causing some cloudiness within the the tank.

If the tank clears up within a day and you are not seeing any ill effects on the livestock I wouldn't worry too much about it, but you may consider doing more frequent smaller changes in the future.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

How to Care for Soft Corals By Robert Farnsworth, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Fri, 26 Apr 2013 01:47:00 GMT

Abstract:

Within the reef aquarium hobby, you often hear the terms soft corals, LPS and SPS used to identify different groups of corals. Grouping corals in this fashion is useful because it not only describes the coral itself, but also helps aquarium hobbyists understand what a particular coral will need from us (lighting, placement, flow, parameters, etc.) in order to survive.

This is our third and final article in the series, if you missed the first two articles be sure to check out How to Care for LPS Corals and How to Care for SPS Corals when you're done with this article. All of the articles are written in the same easy-to-understand, no nonsense style.

Before we dive into Soft coral care, let's take a quick look at each coral type to identify their key features, similarities and differences:


Soft Corals Soft corals lack a rigid stony skeleton. Typically they require lower light and moderate to low water flow. They are often more forgiving with water quality and easier to care for. Common soft corals include Leathers, Zoanthids, Palythoa, Discosoma and Ricordia.
LPS: Large Polyp Stony Corals Large Polyp Stony Corals consist of a rigid skeleton with large fleshy polyps. LPS usually require moderate to high light levels and moderate flow rates. They are a bit more forgiving with water quality compared to SPS corals. Growth rates and patterns vary dramatically from one species to another. Common LPS corals in the aquarium trade include Acanthastrea, Euphyllia, Favia, Fungia, Blastomussa, Dendrophyllia, and Tubastrea.	aquarium lighting, uneaten fish food and poor aquarium maintenance habits. Once the slime spreads, it can quickly carpet your coral, substrate, live rock and even your aquarium glass or acrylic. Cyanobacteria appears when high nutrients (phosphates, nitrates and silicate) are combined with certain light, temperature and water flow conditions. I'VE BEEN SLIMED. WHAT SHOULD I DO?

i have a 30 gal.sump refugium with live rock,plants and miracle mud.copods. should i clean my bubble trap?many copods seem to inhabit it and can they pass through it to my pump? thanks Pete

Keith MacNeil — Mon, 25 Mar 2013 22:31:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello Pete,

Thank you for your inquiry.

If your bubbletrap is a sponge, then yes I would recommend cleaning it otherwise it can start to cause issues with nitrates and/or phosphates from the detritus trapped within it.

What I would recommend doing to help "save" the copepods that live in it is to rinse the sponge out in a bucket of tank water. That will allow you to save the copepods in the water, then strain the water through a net when dumping it down the drain. You can then put the pods back into the fuge that got caught in the net.

Pods will be able to pass through pumps without any issue, some may get chewed up, but a majority will go through without any problem.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M

Marine Depot Customer Service

We seem to lose fish at night time and it has been suggested that we might have a predator in our tank. I thought I had seen a post or video once, but cannot find it now on types of predator that could be in your reef tank. The fish are just gone, no signs of dead bodies and they are what I would consider healthy fish.

Keith MacNeil — Mon, 25 Mar 2013 22:26:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry,

While it can depend on the type of fish that are disappearing on you, the two most common predators that cause this type of problem are mantis shrimp or green brittle starfish.

If you hear a "clicking" noise in your tank there is a chance you have a mantis shrimp in the tank that could be causing the problems. They will hide under and within the rockwork and it can be very hard to see them. There are DIY traps that you can make and set out during the night time to try to catch them.

Green Brittle Starfish are also a commonly sold "pest" that sometimes people don't realize are causing the problem. There are many different types of brittle starfish, but it only seems to be the green colored ones that cause the issue. If you have one of these guys in your tank I would recommend getting rid of it.

Occasionally you will also see what is called a "gorilla" crab come in on rock. Usually they are smaller and won't be able to harm larger fish, but smaller fish can sometimes fall prey to them. Again searching for a DIY trap to catch them can help hopefully remove him from your tank if you have one.

Hopefully that helps with possible solutions to the possible predator in your tank, but if not please shoot us an email at customercare@marinedepot.com for further assistance.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

I have started new saltwater tank. I added new live rock after bathing in high saltwater mix. I have done 3 water exchanges from 20 g to 45 g. tank is 55g. i can not get nitrates down. what do i need to do to zero out nitrates.

Keith MacNeil — Tue, 19 Mar 2013 02:50:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

It sounds like the rock is still in the curing process in your tank. Most of the time we recommend curing the rock in a separate container (usually smaller in volume) so you can do multiple water changes during the curing process. Then once the rock has fully cured it can be transfered in to the display tank where usually only a mild cycle will occur.

At this point your best plan of action is to make sure your protein skimmer is running properly and keep up with the water changes in the tank. That will hopefully help to bring the nitrate levels down for you.

There are also a few filter media's that you could try to use to help reduce the nitrates if you wanted, such as Seachem's Purigen or using a biopellet reactor on the tank.

But usually water changes for a new tank are the best way to help reduce the nitrate levels.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

How to Mix Saltwater and Perform a Water Change (updated 8/3/10) by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Thu, 14 Mar 2013 03:25:00 GMT

Abstract:

Introduction

Today’s aquarist takes every precaution to keep their aquarium healthy and looking great.

After all, this hobby is a large investment in time, money and effort. One of the greatest factors, often overlooked, is water.

Clean, pure saltwater is the basis for everything in your aquarium. Whether you are battling hair algae or have experienced a string of mortalities, the problem can often be traced back to the water you are putting into the tank. Not only is it important to look at the quality of water used, but also the quantity and frequency of water changes as well.

Our tap water supply contains many different chemicals to make the water safe for human consumption. These same chemicals can, however, be deadly to your tank.

The worst of these toxins are chlorine and chloramines. These additives kill bacteria and other organisms in tap water, but even in low concentrations, will burn the gills of your fish.

It is therefore necessary to pre-treat water before it goes into our tanks.

For a fish-only system, a water conditioner will adequately neutralize chlorine.

For reef tanks, there are other chemicals i

Hello. I am getting a 55 gallon tank started and Im wondering if I put a mirror finish on the back of the tank. if that would mess with the inhabitants of the tank?

Keith MacNeil — Sun, 10 Mar 2013 22:48:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

Years ago (maybe decades???) tank manufacturers actually made tanks with mirror backgrounds. They did note that these aquariums were not safe for saltwater use due to the corrosive nature of saltwater.

As long as what you use for the mirror finish is "safe" and will not leach anything in to the tank it should be ok for a freshwater tank, but I would not recommend it for a saltwater tank.

Most people have found using a black or blue background is a better choice for showing off the inhabitants of the tank.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

Hi 2 months ago I set up a 150 gal marineland deep dimension I was thinking of getting a uv sterilizer what would you think, also I just bought a blue tang he did ok the first night I bought him until the next day all he does is hide in the rocks. will he ever come out.

Keith MacNeil — Mon, 04 Mar 2013 03:09:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

Some people like to have UV sterilizers on their tanks, others don't care of them. There certainly are pro's and con's to them, but it really comes down to whether your feel the pro's are better than the con's if you want to add one. I have linked an article below that will hopefully help some:

http://kb.marinedepot.com/article.aspx?id=11059&cNode=4O3V2M

Blue tangs are good at hiding, especially when first introduced into a new tank so I don't think it is acting out of the normal. Just make sure you offer plenty of greens in its diet and hopefully it will start coming out more for you.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

I have 125 gallon tank and have live rock several corals and about 7 fish which include a yellow tang, purple tang, sailfin tang, coral beauty, maroon clown along with a few others. I had a powder blue tang and just recently lost it. I noticed ich on my purple tang this morning and my yellow tang is starting to scrstch. what is the best safest way to treat and get rid of this problem without killing my goral?

Keith MacNeil — Sun, 17 Feb 2013 23:15:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your message.

The best and safest way to treat this is to remove all the fish from the tank and put them in a hospital tank for treatment. Have a look at this thread about Ich on the Marine Depot Forums that talks about treating:

http://forum.marinedepot.com/Topic31173.aspx

Now unfortunately for some the best way to treat the fish/tank simply won't work for them and they need to try using some type of medication in the tank with corals. Sometimes they work fine, other times they don't seem to have any effect on the ich. I have added some links below for medications that you may consider using on the tank:

Kordon's Ich Attack

Chem-Marine Stop Parasite

Ruby Reef Kich-Ich

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

What is the Best Diet to Feed My Coral? by Grant Lubbock, MarineDepot.com Customer Care

Dot Yuson — Wed, 13 Feb 2013 23:28:00 GMT

Abstract:

As hobbyists have gained knowledge of how to keep toxins corals are sensitive to—primarily nitrates and phosphates—under control and balancing and stabilizing essential trace elements, corals are now successfully kept in biotopes all around the world.

As coral lighting requirements became more understood and higher-intensity systems developed, even more corals are now being kept successfully in closed saltwater systems. Understanding and recreating the varied water currents that corals require have helped fuel this mammoth success even further.

The final threshold that has made the saltwater aquarium hobby so successful is our ability to supply the specific food requirements for individual corals.

Corals have three methods of ingestion of particulate food matter and organic waste.

What is the Best Diet to Feed My Coral? by Grant Lubbock, MarineDepot.co
</article>
<article>
<h1>I am looking for a r/o di system for my marine tank. I hope to soon add corals and invertabrates to my tank. I only have a 55gal and only need water for water changes. is there a system that can be mounted under my tank and set to top off the water level automatically?</h1>
<p>Keith MacNeil — Sun, 10 Feb 2013 04:26:00 GMT</p>
<B>Abstract:</B> <P>Hello and thank you for your inquiry.</P><P>Marine Depot sells a wide variety of sizes (flow rate) RO/DI systems. You can view them there:</P><P><A href=

http://www.marinedepot.com/RO_DI_Water_Filter_Systems-FIRORD-ct.html

I would also like to link an article about setting up an RO/DI system that I think will help you some:

http://kb.marinedepot.com/article.aspx?id=11030&cNode=4O3V2M

RO/DI systems need to have a tap water source as well as a drain close by, so if this is possible while setting it up under your tank you could do this. I personally don't like to hook an RO/DI system directly up to a tank just in case the float valve malfunctions for some reason this would cause the water to keep flowing into your tank. Some float valves have a back up float and this would be your best bet if you chose that method.

You would need to split the output line so you could run one to the sump as well as one for filling up what ever container you use for mixing saltwater.

Hopefully that helps, but if you need more inforamation please feel free to contact us directly at customercare@marinedepot.com for more assistance.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

I have 66 gallon saltwater running with currently no sump, overflow, refugium or skimmer. I have a spare 29g and a small 5 gallon and was wondering if there was a way I could use either to help out with what Im missing. Maybe convey the 29 to a sump and the smaller one inside it as a refugium?? If thats possible then I really have no idea how to go about setting up the sump since my tank is not drilled with any holes and Id rather not drill any. is there another way to utilize the sump with

Keith MacNeil — Fri, 18 Jan 2013 03:54:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

Here is an article that should help with your questions. If after reading it you still have other questions please feel free to send us an email directly at customercare@marinedepot.com or give us a call at 1-800-566-FISH

http://kb.marinedepot.com/article.aspx?id=11033

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

My Nano is not doing well (2 years old) I do a water exchange of 5 gallons every 4 weeks and am bombarded with algae. It is not directly in front of a window but the whole room is fairly bright. Once live rock has been cured (when we first set it up) does it remain o.k. if it stays in a filtered environment. By the way, only one of my original five fish remains alive (clown fish) snails, shrimp and long leg crabs dont last long.Thanks,Alice

Keith MacNeil — Sun, 13 Jan 2013 22:47:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hi Alice,

Thank you for your inquiry. To better help you we will need a little more information such as size of the tank and water parameters (pH, salinity, temp, ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate, etc...) with actual numbers.

To better help with this problem, please either visit our online forum or send us an email directly to customercare@marinedepot.com.

I have linked our articles below that might help in the mean time (there are many that hopefully will help answer some of your questions):

http://kb.marinedepot.com/default.aspx?cNode=4O3V2M

Liverock for the most part should be fine for many years in the tank assuming there are not "issues". If you have problems with high nitrates and/or phosphates, those can sometimes become trapped inside the rock and can help feed the algae. Most people though will keep the same rock for many year, some others prefer to change out some of the rock once a year.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

Do remove all of the bio balls in the Bio Cube 29 to set up the refugium that you describe in you article?

Keith MacNeil — Mon, 07 Jan 2013 22:38:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your email.

Yes you will want to remove all the bioballs to set up the refugium in the Bio Cube 29. You may want to remove them over a couple of weeks to help prevent any type of possible shock to the system though.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

Corals not happy. I have a 7 yr old 72 gallon 6 fish mixed coral tank. Its been problem free for 6.5 years.I HAD 30 plus corals till about this time last year. Ive lost all of my lps and sps and my leathers are not happy most of the time.Even my 10g refugium is not happy. The only happy corals are my mushrooms, star pollyps and purple sympodium. My Tropic Marin pro reef salt water has tested fine every time.I do have some patches of coraline at times. Ive replaced my 54watt T5 lights even chang

Keith MacNeil — Sun, 18 Nov 2012 20:22:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

There is a lot more information that we would need to get from you to help assist such as water parameter (temp, pH, alk, calcium, mag, etc...), how quickly stuff died off, how often you change your water, changing bulbs, etc...

I would suggest sending us an email (customercare@marinedepot.com) so we can go over more information to try to help solve what is going on within your tank.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service.

Have a new Reeflo Hammerhead Hybrid pump. It over heats within the hour. Keeps on turning on and off. Pump pipe 40mm, height of pipe up to 2.5 meters. Length of pipe about 10 meters. Feeds 12 x 20mm ball valve outlets. Have tried Barracude but same problem.

Keith MacNeil — Sun, 18 Nov 2012 20:19:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

I would suggest calling in and speaking to either one of our tech guys or speaking with Reeflo directly for the issues you are having. There are other questions that would need to be asked. You can reach us at 1-714-385-0080 or you can reach Reeflo at 800-447-8342.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

My Peppermint shrimp are eating my snails, even the live ones. Is this normal behavior for Peppermint shrimp? How do I stop them?

Keith MacNeil — Sun, 18 Nov 2012 20:13:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

The first thing I would make sure of is that they are truly peppermint shrimp and not camel shrimp. Camel shrimp will occasionally go after other sources of food. If what you have are indeed peppermint shrimp unfortunately there isn't really a way to stop them from going after your snails except to try to feed them more often. If they aren't finding other sources of food, they have no other choice but to find something to fed upon.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

Which crab can you put in a aquarium that will eat bristle worms?ThanksDavid Weyrich

Keith MacNeil — Tue, 06 Nov 2012 07:14:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hi David,

Thank you for your inquiry. Let me start by saying bristleworms can be a valuable part of a good clean up crew in a reef aquarium. Many people like having them in their tanks. Having said that if you are looking for a crab that will eat them, Arrow Crabs will go after them. Some do not consider Arrow Crabs 100% reef safe, but many people do have them in their tanks without any issues.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

How do I get rid of bryopsis?

Keith MacNeil — Tue, 06 Nov 2012 07:11:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

There are a couple of ways to help combat bryopsis in your tank. First is manual removal, but you must be careful with this approach as any pieces left floating around the tank can settledown and start a "new" patch of bryopsis growing elsewhere in the tank. Manual removal while siphoning out water works well.

Second is reducing the fuel that feeds the algae, ie nitrates and phosphates. Reduced feedings, the use of phosphate removing media and water changes can help with this.

Lastly many people have had luck elevating their magnesium levels using Kent Marine's Tech-M to help kill off bryopsis. If you do a search with the key words "bryopsis" and "Tech-M" you should be able to find lots of great information on this method.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

When adding buffer and calcium, how long should you wait between adding each and what happens if you add them back to back?Thank You

Keith MacNeil — Tue, 06 Nov 2012 07:01:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

While it can depend on the flow within your tank, nomally you should wait about 15-30 seconds between adding part A and part B. As long as you dose them in a high flow area you can dose them fairly close together (timewise).

If there is anything else we can do for you please let me know.

Keith M

Marine Depot Customer Service

How to Get Rid of Reef Aquarium Pests by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Fri, 26 Oct 2012 02:55:00 GMT

Abstract:

To many reef keepers biodiversity is the key to a beautiful tank and a healthy ecosystem. Some of my favorite moments enjoying my aquariums are discovering a new hitchhiker that has come in on my live rock. Many organisms such as sponges, feather dusters, snails, and the occasional coral can help beatify a tank and are often proof of a thriving mini ecosystem. But some stowaways cause more trouble than they are worth. Some can be dangerous to your fish, while others can harm you, and if released into the wild some can harm the environment. This article will focus on the identification and removal of some of nastiest and hardest to remove of these organisms. Aiptasias/Majano Anemones
Description: Aiptasias or glass anemones are small light brown, almost clear, anemones usually less than an inch long. However, they can grow to 3-4 inches long. They possess thin long pointed tentacles. Majanos on the other hand can take many disguises. They too are small ½ - ¾ inch long, and come in many different colors from green to brown. Its tentacles are short and rounded. Often these anemones are confused with button polyps, zooanthids, or other small anemones.

Problem:

The problem with these organisms is two-fold. They pack a powerful sting that can injure surrounding corals and fish. Also, if left unchecked they reproduce quickly and can take over a tank. Often th

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Aquarium Heaters By Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Fri, 19 Oct 2012 02:09:00 GMT

Abstract:

As the winter months draw near, colder temperatures—both inside and outside—are fast approaching.

It's around this time each year I begin to see threads pop up on aquarium message boards discussing aquarium heater failure. Sometimes hobbyists are lucky: the heater simply did not turn on and their tank got colder. In other instances, heaters actually overheat or crack and the results are disastrous. I actually experienced heater failure myself this past season. I got lucky: my heater only stopped working, so the tank temperature dropped a bit. Fortunately, I had a spare heater on hand to take its place.

Unfortunately, dealing with heater failure is an inevitable part of caring for a temperature-sensitive aquarium system. If we keep that in mind—that aquarium heaters can and will, eventually, fail—we can prepare accordingly to protect our precious pets from temperature fluctuations.

With that mindset in place, you may be asking yourself, "What can I do to protect the livestock in my aquarium?"

Whether you have livestock shipped directly to your door or purchase your pets from the local fish store, it is important that any new life you intend to put into your aquarium be properly acclimated first.

Proper acclimation actually helps reduce the stress animals face after relocation. In fact, the acclimation procedure itself is fairly simple—although it does vary slightly for different species of animals. Sensitive fish, corals and invertebrates, such as snails, crabs and shrimp take longer to acclimate than hardier fish, corals and inverts.

In this article, we will cover some of the ways to properly acclimate animals to an aquarium and provide you with some tips and product recommendations along the way.

Checklist of Items Needed for Proper Acclimation

Airline tubing or

When are the best times to dose B-Ionic and DKH buffer?

Keith MacNeil — Tue, 09 Oct 2012 07:10:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

Most people have found dosing the B-ionic during the evening time works best. During the night time the pH of the aquarium tends to fall and the dosing of the supplement can help keep it more elevated.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

I am wanting to start an SPS aquarium and have a few questions.1) I have a calcium reactor and was wondering if I would need to dose B-Ionic 1 & 2?2) Would I still need to add Trace and other supplements to the tank?3) My auto top off has kalkwasser in it, do I still need to add it?and last do I need to add extra calcium also?

Keith MacNeil — Tue, 09 Oct 2012 07:07:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

For the most part all of your questions can be answered with one answer, it depends on the demands of the tank and what the levels are testing at. You will want to keep an eye on the calcium and alk levels using a quality test kit.

Some people find that when they have a very high demand for calcium (ie their stony corals are growing quickly) that a calcium reactor doesn't supply enough calcium for them and they supplement with either a two part or kalkwasser. So without testing it is hard to answer a yes or no to your questions. You may even find initially that you don't need to supplement the calcium reactor, but as the corals grow and you have more of them that you do need to supplement the reactor.

If you are currently dosing trace elements and other supplements you certain can keep using them if your tank is doing well. Many people use different trace elements and supplements with success. Find what works for your tank and keep with that. I have used many products over the years and I am currently trying the Prodibio products and have found they are working nicely on my tank.

If there is anything else feel free to give us a call at 1-800-566-FISH or shoot us an email at customercare@marinedepot.com and we can discuss further.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

What would cause calerpa algae in the fuge to turn to mush and dye??

Keith MacNeil — Thu, 27 Sep 2012 23:00:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

Normally when you see this happen there is either a swing in water parameters, temperature change or lighting change.

I would suggest cleaning out any of the dead caulerpa, doing a few water changes, double check your water quality and if your light is getting old over your refugium to change it out.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

I have a 100g reef tank with a 10g sump. The tank was doing fine for a couple years and then the power went out and the tank drained on the floor. now it seems the tank went through a short recycle which killed off all the fish. now I cant seem to maintain proper levels of ALK, or calcium, it was at 17.8 dkh and 490 cal 8.0 ph 1150 mag and nitrite and ammonia and nitrates are near or at zero. some corals are ok and others are closed up. I did a water change and the alk ped to 12.8dkh but now c

Keith MacNeil — Thu, 27 Sep 2012 22:57:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry. I'm sorry to hear about the issues you are having. The first thing I would suggest is going with a larger sump. A 10 gallon tank is simply too small for that size aquarium and in the event of another power outage the same thing could happen again. I would recommend going with as large of a sump as you can fit under the tank, ideally something at least 24 to 30 inches long and 18 inches high.

As for your aquariums water chemistry, it sounds like when you had the die off it did cause some cycling in the tank and more than likely you still have some build up inside the tank (possibly trapped in the rock and/or sand). I would suggest starting off doing some good sized water changes. Doing weekly 40-60% water changes and siphoning out between the rocks during the water change. I would recommend doing this for at least one month, if not two. This should help to bring the water chemistry back to where you want it and then from there doing monthly water changes and the use of additives/supplements or using a calcium reactor should help to keep them stable for you.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

how do you or can you clean the underside of the center support glass to remove the haze or etching from the salt water? I know this is cutting down the light over the center of tank which inturn to the corals.

Keith MacNeil — Thu, 27 Sep 2012 22:51:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

The haze is usually caused by one of two things, salt creep or calcium build up. With a tank full of water it can be very difficult to clean this safely. For calcium build up you will need to find a way to dissolve this from the glass. For empty aquariums the use of some type of acid works well (vinegar or muriatic), but with a full tank it will be a little more difficult. I would suggest trying the use of vinegar on the glass. Drain the tank down some (maybe a 1/4 down) and use papertowels soaked in vinegar to rub over the glass. Hopefully with enough elbow grease and the power of the vinegar it will help remove the haze.

You can also try using a sharp blade (razor blade), but you will need to be extra careful.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

Probiotics: What Are They and What Do They Do? By Murray W. Camp

Dot Yuson — Fri, 21 Sep 2012 01:30:00 GMT

Abstract:

Adequate control of dissolved nutrients in reef aquaria has long been the bane of reef keepers. Large periodic water changes, massive amounts of live rock in the display, deep sand beds, algal filters, and expensive amounts of chemical media have all been recommended as tools in the battle against dissolved nitrates and phosphates. All of these tools have merit.

Over the last few years, however, many reef aquarists have embraced a more bacteria-centered approach utilizing what are termed "probiotic methodologies" to proactively manipulate the microbial communities involved in nutrient processing in aquariums. Almost all of the methodologies involve providing a source of organic carbon to "feed" the bacteria. Some of them also utilize periodic inoculation of bacterial strains, and some of the more involved systems also utilize certain minerals, called zeolites, in an up-flow

Time for a Change: Replacing your Reef Tank Bulbs by Keith MacNeil

Dot Yuson — Wed, 12 Sep 2012 05:23:00 GMT

Abstract:

The photosynthetic organisms in your aquarium are dependent on your lighting system to deliver the light they need to survive and thrive.

Corals have an alga called zooxanthellae within their tissue. When the zooxanthellae photosynthesize, it produces enough sugar to not only feed the zooxanthellae but the coral as well. To do this properly, they require the proper spectrum of light as well as the proper intensity.

Of course, the spectrum and intensity of your light bulb(s) will fade over time. Often this change is subtle enough that the human eye cannot detect a difference. It is quite the contrary for the organisms requiring light to survive.

That is why it is of utmost importance to change out your aquarium light bulbs on a regular basis. This article will cover the best practices of bulb replacement and provide tips for changing out your bulbs to reduce shock to the photosynthetic organisms in your tank.

The following table contains recommended time frames for replacing the most common types of aquarium light bulbs. Please bear in mind when referencing this table that there are a few other factors to consider before replacing your bulbs, some of which we will cover here. However, this table should provide you with a general idea of how often you should change your aquarium light bulbs.

customercare@marinedepot.com) or visiting our online forum so we can get a little more information about what you are treating for and what might be the best course of action.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

I recently purchased a canister filter and I cant figure out how to put it together? Is there any possibility of me bringing it to your store so someone can help me put it together so I can start my fresh water 72 gallon bowfront tank? Thank you!

Keith MacNeil — Mon, 10 Sep 2012 07:45:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

Unfortunately we don't have a store that you could bring the filter down for us to assist with set up, but you can call our tech support team at 1-800-566-FISH and will can try to assist you with your filter.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

What is the recommended size sump pump for a wet/dry filter for a 75g tank? 100g?

Keith MacNeil — Tue, 04 Sep 2012 06:50:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your message.

The size of the pump will depend on two factors, the flow that the overflow box can handle and the flow that the wet/dry filter can handle. Ideally you would like around a 5-10 times the tanks volume in flow from your return pump (so for a 75 gallon around 375 to 750 gallons per hour). Assuming your overflow and filter can handle that flow, that is what we would recommend for your tank.

If there is anything else please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

How to Cycle a Saltwater Aquarium By Mark Callahan, Mr. Saltwater Tank

Dot Yuson — Tue, 14 Aug 2012 00:41:00 GMT

Abstract:

Let's face it: you want instant gratification.

As soon as your box of aquarium supplies arrives from MarineDepot.com, you drop everything and begin fiddling with your new gear. And, once that last piece of equipment is set up, you'll be ready to add fish to your new tank, right?

Not so fast.

You've got one step left before you can add fish to your new aquarium: cycling the tank.

Cycling a saltwater aquarium involves growing lots of nitrifying bacteria to process fish waste. The formal name for this process is called the nitrogen cycle.

Innovative Marine Reef Ready Kit Nuvo Aquarium Kits w/ Dimmable LEDs

Taking your tank through the cycling process is important as you'll need lots of bacteria to take toxic fish waste (called ammonia) and turn it into less toxic compounds (nitrite, nitrate). Add in fish too early and they won't survive the cycling process.

Growing the bacteria takes time so one key to cycling your tank is patience. I know you are pumped to get your tank stocked with fish, but you'll want to take it particularly slow here.

ADD LIVE ROCK THEN WAIT

How to Remove Phosphates from a Saltwater Aquarium By Joseph Chang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Mon, 13 Aug 2012 01:42:00 GMT

Abstract:

Featured Customer Tank: Leo's 150 Through and Through

A common problem in marine fish and reef aquarium systems is high levels of phosphate. Phosphate can come from food added to the aquarium, fish waste, fish and coral respiration, low-quality carbon, impure water added to the tank along with numerous other causes.

Phosphate is present in every aquarium and exists in two forms: organic phosphate and inorganic phosphate (mainly orthophosphates). Organic phosphate breaks down over time into orthophosphates through natural biochemical processes. The accumulated orthophosphates in turn are taken up readily by nuisance algae and will inhibit calcification, which retards coralline algae and coral growth. Elevated phosphate levels also boost the growth of brown algae pigments in SPS which can cause the corals to turn brown. Ideally, you want to keep your phosphate level below 0.03 ppm in a reef aquarium to minimize nuisance algae growth and promote the health and color of your corals.

A good test kit is pivotal in your fight against phosphates. Salifert and Elos both offer excellent test kits you can use to test for orthophosphates. The

How to Set-up an Auto Top-Off System By Daniel Somboonsiri, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Tue, 07 Aug 2012 05:22:00 GMT

Abstract:

For most aquarium hobbyists, the aquarium is a source of relaxation: a way to escape and unwind after a hard day. We look to the subtle sounds, the gentle sway of current and the graceful movement of fish to bring the beauty of underwater worlds into our homes and offices. Some maintenance will always be involved with keeping aquaria, but the less we have to work to enjoy our aquariums the better.

Enter automation.

Maintaining an aquarium is beginning to look a lot more Jetsons than Flintstones. Today, aquariums can be almost fully automated, even monitored and maintained by mobile phone. While we're not going to go into every possible automated device today, I would like to cover one that can make your aquarist life a whole lot easier while creating a healthier environment for your fishy friends.

I don't know about you but I hate lugging buckets and jugs of water around.

No matter how hard I try, water spills on the carpet, the dog drinks from the bucket when my back's turned and my wife is inevitably upset. This is where an auto top-off comes in: a top-off system will sense when your water level drops and replenish the water automatically. No more constantly lugging water or worrying about someone coming by to fill up the tank while you're away.

Personal sanity and carpet cleaning bills aside, an automatic top-off system will make for a healthy tank. Saltwater systems will maintain a constant salinity. Protein skimmers will function mor

How far above the water line is recommended to hang LED lights?

Keith MacNeil — Wed, 01 Aug 2012 23:55:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

While it will vary from fixture to fixture, in general hanging the LED lights around 6-12 inches off the water surface usually works great.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

We just got our powerheads from marine depot.zoomedpowersweep 226 max 19,the air flow is really poor, there is water in the plastic tube, which is slowing down the air flow, we have tried several things, but it hasnt worked, any suggestions?

Keith MacNeil — Mon, 30 Jul 2012 23:20:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

Let me start by saying you don't need to use the air intake on the powerheads, it is optional and most people don't run them especially on saltwater tanks. When used on a saltwater tank it can cause salt to spray all over the place causing a hugh mess.

Having said that, if you want to run the air intake it is very important to have the powerhead towards the surface of the tank. The venturi force used to pull air in is not very powerful and if the powerhead is too deep in the tank there isn't enough force being produced to pull air in against the water pressure. If you increase and decrease the depth of the powerhead in the aquarium you should see the effect this has on air production.

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

how do i get rid of red slime and keep it gone

Keith MacNeil — Mon, 30 Jul 2012 23:15:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

Red slime or cyanobacteria is usually caused by one or a combination of factors including flow (lack of), water quality (nitrate and/or phosphates) and/or old lights.

To help combat red slime one of the best solutions I have found includes the following:

1) Increased water changes, making sure to use filtered water (RO or RO/DI) mixed with a high quality salt. During the water changes you will want to siphon out as much red slime as you can. I will try to do 20-30% water changes every 2-4 days.

2) Decrease the amount of time the lights are on, even keeping the tank dark for a couple of days. If the bulbs are older I recommend changing them out, but slowly ramp up how long they are on for. New bulbs can also cause an outbreak if the red slime is already there.

3) Decrease the amount of food being fed. Less food in generally means less waste being produced.

4) Increase water flow within the tank trying to eliminate any dead spots within the tank.

5) Using some type of phosphate removing media (like Phosban or Rowaphos) to aide in the removal of phosphates from the water.

While I personally have never used any type of red slime removing medications, so people have used them with sucess so that may be an option for you as well.

Below is a link about getting rid of Nuisance Algae that might help as well:

http://kb.marinedepot.com/article.aspx?id=10762&cNode=4O3V2M

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

I HAVE A 34 GALLON RIMLESSS NANO TANK WITH A FEW CORALS. WHAT IS THE BEST LIGHTIONG TO GROW CORAL IN THIS SIZE TANK?

Keith MacNeil — Mon, 30 Jul 2012 21:04:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hello and thank you for your inquiry.

The "best" type of lighting is a very tough question to answer as there can be many correct answers depending on who you ask as well as the tank itself (type of corals, cost factors, etc...).

For a 34 gallon tank I feel you have three different best choices to go with: Metal Halide, T5 HO flourescent lighting and LED fixtures. Each will have its pro's and con's, so the ultimate decision would be up to you.

Below are a few pro's and con's of each:

Metal Halide offers a wide variety of bulbs in both color and wattage, can be used in combination with T5 or LED for dawn to dusk effect, generally is not too expensive initial cost and there are lots of different fixtures available. But metal halides can sometimes cause heat issues (possibly might need a chiller to help keep the water cool) and can be a little more expensive to run on the electric bill.

T5HO fixtures are generally fairly cool to run, costs usually aren't too high for many different fixtures and in general are fairly cheap to run on the electric bill. But more than likely would need a 4-6 bulb fixture over your tank (depending on light needs of your corals) and that can get expensive when it comes time to replace the bulbs once a year.

LEDs are very cool running (generally adding little to no heat to the aquarium), bulbs/fixtures last for years eliminating yearly replacement of bulbs and are fairly inexpensive on the electric bill. Being a newer technology for the industry the costs of fixtures can be higher.

There are more pro's and con's, but that hopefully will give you a little overview of some of them.

If you have any more questions, especially about certain fixtures or lights please feel free to send us an email directly at customercare@marinedepot.com.

Keith M

Marine Depot Customer Service

I purchased the Inn. Marine 30gal. Mini Nuvo, tank and stand (have not yet received). First time aquarium owner. Can you please advise on what items and supplies I will need that are not included in this package. I have been collecting many articles, reading up on getting started. But thought I should ask you guys to make sure. Thank you,Pam

Keith MacNeil — Mon, 30 Jul 2012 20:50:00 GMT

Abstract:

Hi Pam,

Thank you for your inquiry. The Innovative Marine tanks are great set ups and I think you will be very happy with your purchase. I would need more information from you to help make sure you get the right equipement for your tank. I would need to know are you setting up a freshwater or saltwater system. If freshwater, will it be a fish only system or a planted tank? If you are setting up a marine (saltwater) system will it be a fish only system, fish only system with live rock (FOWLR) or a reef tank?

The IM tanks will include a built in filter system which is suitable for both fresh and saltwater tanks. For saltwater tanks I still recommend using live rock as well. I have linked an article below about items needed for a reef tank. If you aren't setting up a reef tank I would suggest contacting us directly (customercare@marinedepot.com) for an easier back and forth dialog in helping get the correct equipment for your set up:

http://kb.marinedepot.com/article.aspx?id=10252

If there is anything else we can do for you please let us know.

Keith M.

Marine Depot Customer Service

The ABCs of LEDs, Part 2 By Robert Farnsworth, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Dot Yuson — Fri, 27 Jul 2012 06:19:00 GMT

Abstract:


After reading through the comments on our May 2012 article, The ABCs of LEDs, we decided it would be a good idea to post a short follow-up to answer some of your questions and provide additional information about LED aquarium lights. One thing we noticed is that many hobbyists are having a difficult time choosing the right LED light for their tank or are unsure if LED light will be sufficient for their system. A lot of the uncertainty and skepticism about LEDs stems from their relative newness in the aquarium industry. Just a few years back, aquarium keepers only used LED lights for moon/lunar applications. LEDs as a primary light source are still a relatively new phenomenon.
Let's first talk about diodes. It is important to understand

Marine Depot Education Center - Knowledgebase

What is the cause of too many bubbles coming from the protein reactor after you have cleaned it?

I have a Salt water fish tank only and I need to replace my Sea-life wet dry system. 75 gallons with an external Supreme Classic Model 7 pump. It makes too much noise. What is a good/best wet dry with internal pump thats quiet? Or wet dry that I can use my existing pump thats only a few months old.

How to Care for SPS Corals by Robert Farnsworth

Thinking about purchasing a 3 gallon tank. What type of Betta fish would be good, and would I need a filter?

Hello, I have a five gallon marine fish tank and a Ive been experiencing after I clean it that it gets cloudy for a while and then clears up, any ideas why ? thank you.

How to Care for Soft Corals By Robert Farnsworth, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

i have a 30 gal.sump refugium with live rock,plants and miracle mud.copods. should i clean my bubble trap?many copods seem to inhabit it and can they pass through it to my pump? thanks Pete

I have started new saltwater tank. I added new live rock after bathing in high saltwater mix. I have done 3 water exchanges from 20 g to 45 g. tank is 55g. i can not get nitrates down. what do i need to do to zero out nitrates.

How to Mix Saltwater and Perform a Water Change (updated 8/3/10) by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Hello. I am getting a 55 gallon tank started and Im wondering if I put a mirror finish on the back of the tank. if that would mess with the inhabitants of the tank?

Hi 2 months ago I set up a 150 gal marineland deep dimension I was thinking of getting a uv sterilizer what would you think, also I just bought a blue tang he did ok the first night I bought him until the next day all he does is hide in the rocks. will he ever come out.

What is the Best Diet to Feed My Coral? by Grant Lubbock, MarineDepot.com Customer Care

Do remove all of the bio balls in the Bio Cube 29 to set up the refugium that you describe in you article?

Have a new Reeflo Hammerhead Hybrid pump. It over heats within the hour. Keeps on turning on and off. Pump pipe 40mm, height of pipe up to 2.5 meters. Length of pipe about 10 meters. Feeds 12 x 20mm ball valve outlets. Have tried Barracude but same problem.

My Peppermint shrimp are eating my snails, even the live ones. Is this normal behavior for Peppermint shrimp? How do I stop them?

Which crab can you put in a aquarium that will eat bristle worms?ThanksDavid Weyrich

How do I get rid of bryopsis?

When adding buffer and calcium, how long should you wait between adding each and what happens if you add them back to back?Thank You

How to Get Rid of Reef Aquarium Pests by Scott Brang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

Everything You Ever Wanted to Know About Aquarium Heaters By Keith MacNeil, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

When are the best times to dose B-Ionic and DKH buffer?

What would cause calerpa algae in the fuge to turn to mush and dye??

how do you or can you clean the underside of the center support glass to remove the haze or etching from the salt water? I know this is cutting down the light over the center of tank which inturn to the corals.

Probiotics: What Are They and What Do They Do? By Murray W. Camp

Time for a Change: Replacing your Reef Tank Bulbs by Keith MacNeil

I recently purchased a canister filter and I cant figure out how to put it together? Is there any possibility of me bringing it to your store so someone can help me put it together so I can start my fresh water 72 gallon bowfront tank? Thank you!

What is the recommended size sump pump for a wet/dry filter for a 75g tank? 100g?

How to Cycle a Saltwater Aquarium By Mark Callahan, Mr. Saltwater Tank

How to Remove Phosphates from a Saltwater Aquarium By Joseph Chang, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

How to Set-up an Auto Top-Off System By Daniel Somboonsiri, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad

How far above the water line is recommended to hang LED lights?

We just got our powerheads from marine depot.zoomedpowersweep 226 max 19,the air flow is really poor, there is water in the plastic tube, which is slowing down the air flow, we have tried several things, but it hasnt worked, any suggestions?

how do i get rid of red slime and keep it gone

I HAVE A 34 GALLON RIMLESSS NANO TANK WITH A FEW CORALS. WHAT IS THE BEST LIGHTIONG TO GROW CORAL IN THIS SIZE TANK?

The ABCs of LEDs, Part 2 By Robert Farnsworth, MarineDepot.com Reef Squad